I've always hated my penmanship especially when I mark a bow. I have a laser etcher and was playing around with burning the limb glass for my logo and draw weights. The results are good but I'm concerned about hurting the integrity of the glass.
Do you think I'm asking for trouble down the road?
Here is a pic. The right logo is burned only and the left logo was filled with gold paint. I don't know if you can tell how deep the burn is but it's not very deep.

The only part that would hold me back from doing etching free hand is if you do an oops! or don't like how it comes out, you are done. Its permanent. 

Using an ultra pine paint pen. if you don't like it you can wipe it off with lacquer thinner, and go again. same thing with a calligraphy pen.

There is another option that you can look into and that is water slide decals.
check this out.  you can create your own custom signiture on your PC and print them on this paper.

They actually come out pretty good with a little practice. i used them to put Chinese writing on a limb before.   

https://www.amazon.com/Waterslide-Transfer-Transparent-Printable-Tumblers/dp/B098KYH7R9/ref=sr_1_6?adgrpid=1344703329452477&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4oJ27z7nsqcWZGEtbnIviJqW99C0Sm3O53t8vBFOdQpqRJbPUF-gQe_mBwMcGgSgrH9AnzNLFLEBJmvyAao_N8MiGnNPLmS3Wf4v0JCRLlAej9pDKjCvESgccz445m4BKW_GGsVWj7HkXRYWVZDUPFO6uYsiO5ZHWfGf9oSP9mDXNqRFLNE8eZlhSUwy_ZDY3SACoENXtU7VJj3WAkyjpI-zdrDYP5vJUQG1gJmffWXQLC_C6F6mWG6yTjVUbUukk8MM9p_KGDFgV-j9MfV-xplqXPOAwfkMnalcERwbDVM.Ddi60pvtOCNhYH1zIrs0U26_5WzavS7FyEeVCUslKv8&dib_tag=se&hvadid=84044360760998&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=62223&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-84044347300364%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=7470_13441219&keywords=water%2Bslide%2Bdecal%2Bmaker&mcid=6a54750de1f83a989ee5bd5f3b3db42f&msclkid=fd8bdaa577e41d2a751eb33b119230fc&qid=1771988607&sr=8-6&th=1

 I usually use a pen and free hand. I have wiped off more than I have kept. Haha. I'm using my laser machine so I can change the font if I want and it etches the exact same every time. I was just concerned about burning into the fiberglass. Think it will cause cracks or something later?

It may depend on how hot it really gets. I am thinking 160 may be too hot.
Kirk why you writing Chinese on your bows. 

I think you should be fine as long as your etching isn't in a highly stressed area.  You are not only creating stress risers, albeit on a small scale, but you are very likely severing the fibers which provide the bulk of the strength and stiffness of the fiberglass.
If your etching is in a place where the stress is low, this likely won't be a problem.  However, you are potentially opening yourself up to fibers popping up at the edge of the etchings.  I would think the paint and then an overlaying finish would help prevent that.

Are we worrying too much? how jagged is the surface of the laser etching? The entire limb edges and shelf and edges of the nocks on the belly side all have been worked extensively from their original shape and techincally have exposed fiber wide open. I understand they are sanded down fine and uniformly, If the Laser etching were sealed with thin CA or a hard clear coat whats the difference. Using the 36-40 grit we all love the glass is probably hitting momentary temperature right up there with the laser etching.  Just adding some thought here i dont know the answers.

Thats pretty neat Kirk, did you use the water slide transfer paper after 1-2 coats of clear or before it goes off to the booth?

Why not etch the wood and stay off the glass ???

Quote from: Crooked Stic on Today at 07:06:06 AMIt may depend on how hot it really gets. I am thinking 160 may be too hot.
Kirk why you writing Chinese on your bows. 

I had a custom bow I was building for a guy in China that wanted something written on the limbs in Chinese characters. It took me a little trial and error learning how to apply these water slide decals without screwing them up, but it wasn't difficult. The thing I learned about using them is that it's better to install them on the raw glass, and spray your finish over them. They are much more durable that way.

But with that being said, don't try spraying a lacquer, or a hot conversion varnish over them. They wrinkle up like a prune.

Quote from: Bodork on February 24, 2026, 10:18:44 PMI usually use a pen and free hand. I have wiped off more than I have kept. Haha. I'm using my laser machine so I can change the font if I want and it etches the exact same every time. I was just concerned about burning into the fiberglass. Think it will cause cracks or something later?

It has already been mentioned above, but this could potentially cause problems if it's in the working portion of the limb. Maybe not at first, but as the bow ages you may end up with stress cracks coming off your lettering. I don't think I'd be comfortable with it myself.

Quote from: Bodork on February 24, 2026, 07:34:13 PMDo you think I'm asking for trouble down the road?

I think you will be fine as long as you put it on the belly into the riser where the fades are thicker. Once you get to where the fade is twice as thick as the limb the stresses have dropped way off and it shouldn't cause any trouble.

OldRawhide42's suggestion to do it on the side of the riser is also a good idea, or you could engrave the info on a small piece of wood or brass and glue that onto the riser as an accent piece.

Quote from: Kirkll on Today at 10:18:36 AMBut with that being said, don't try spraying a lacquer, or a hot conversion varnish over them. They wrinkle up like a prune.

Inkjet inks will often run or smear when painted over, as well. Usually you can paint over decals by misting them with a fine, dry coat first, then putting a heavier coat after the first has dried. This is what automotive painters will often do when working over decals, but there is no guarantee it works on these.


Mark