Well you certainly don't need to have these machined from stainless steel if you are determined to use this system. Even if you hunt in the rain a lot they are not going to rust out on you using regular steel. Nothing a little steel wool won't take care of now and then...... good luck...

Quote from: Kirkll on July 09, 2025, 11:11:04 AMWell you certainly don't need to have these machined from stainless steel if you are determined to use this system. Even if you hunt in the rain a lot they are not going to rust out on you using regular steel. Nothing a little steel wool won't take care of now and then...... good luck...

I definitely wouldn't need them from stainless steel. I actually priced them made outta carbon steel and
they were still pricey. Got a handful of bows that I want to build. Mainly for the kids and I just like to keep everything the same as I'm use to. Been a long time since I've built much

Is this what you need?  How many?

Quote from: Camp Creek on July 10, 2025, 09:05:40 AMIs this what you need?  How many?

One suggestion. For the OD threads, call out a chamfer on both ends to get rid of the sharp thread start.


Mark

Quote from: mmattockx on July 10, 2025, 10:22:15 AM

Quote from: Camp Creek on July 10, 2025, 09:05:40 AMIs this what you need?  How many?

One suggestion. For the OD threads, call out a chamfer on both ends to get rid of the sharp thread start.


Mark

Looks good. A little chamfer wouldn't hurt but I can do that before they are installed

Quote from: BrushWolf on July 10, 2025, 07:14:58 PM

Quote from: mmattockx on July 10, 2025, 10:22:15 AM

Quote from: Camp Creek on July 10, 2025, 09:05:40 AMIs this what you need?  How many?

One suggestion. For the OD threads, call out a chamfer on both ends to get rid of the sharp thread start.


Mark

Looks good. A little chamfer wouldn't hurt but I can do that before they are installed

Pm sent

Stainless dog point set screws drilled and tapped.

I really don't think it's that important that these be made from stainless steel. I would think a local machine shop could turn out a bunch of these on a lathe at a decent price if you were not dead set on stainless steel. It's not like you have to worry about rust if you keep the bolts oiled, and use a bit of steel wool on the studs now and then, regular steel should be fine.

Good luck to you on this... Kirk

Quote from: Kirkll on September 07, 2025, 08:56:28 PMI really don't think it's that important that these be made from stainless steel. I would think a local machine shop could turn out a bunch of these on a lathe at a decent price if you were not dead set on stainless steel. It's not like you have to worry about rust if you keep the bolts oiled, and use a bit of steel wool on the studs now and then, regular steel should be fine.

Good luck to you on this... Kirk

Kirk I'm sure you are right they don't need to be made out of stainless. I wouldn't have a machine shop quote these unless you are buying a lot of them. The reason I chose the stainless dog points is that they drill and tap alot easier than other materials. This thread is the only reason I wanted to try. My 2 cents good luck.

Years ago I used to use the limb bolt as one point of my limb alignment, and only use one location pin. But.... I was mounting the limbs with the limb bolt only, aligning the limbs, then drilling though the limb for my alignment pin hole and using an overlay to cover it. It worked great for a one off one and done bow.....  but... if you wanted to build extra limbs, or missed poundage, you were screwed. Even after gettin* a precision vertical mill set up I had issues with +or- tolerances on threaded inserts themselves, and tap drift throwing the alignment off.

I finally gave up on that method and went to 2 location pins on the riser, a standard insert, and an oversized bolt hole on the limbs. Even then I get limbs that are slightly off now and then, and need to adjust when profiling the limb using a straight edge for center line.

I wish you guys good luck using single alignment pins....  Kirk

Quote from: Kirkll on September 16, 2025, 07:36:16 PMYears ago I used to use the limb bolt as one point of my limb alignment, and only use one location pin. But.... I was mounting the limbs with the limb bolt only, aligning the limbs, then drilling though the limb for my alignment pin hole and using an overlay to cover it. It worked great for a one off one and done bow.....  but... if you wanted to build extra limbs, or missed poundage, you were screwed. Even after gettin* a precision vertical mill set up I had issues with +or- tolerances on threaded inserts themselves, and tap drift throwing the alignment off.

I finally gave up on that method and went to 2 location pins on the riser, a standard insert, and an oversized bolt hole on the limbs. Even then I get limbs that are slightly off now and then, and need to adjust when profiling the limb using a straight edge for center line.

I wish you guys good luck using single alignment pins....  Kirk

I can see what you're saying. I had issues years ago with a 2 pin system. I never oversized the bolt hole though. How much are you over boring it for a 5/16 bolt? Since I went with the old master crafters system years ago I have had good luck with it. I've built multiple limbs for a single riser with it and never had any major issues. Really liked the system but will probably have to go with something more readily available.

Quote from: Jegs.mich on September 07, 2025, 03:41:16 PMStainless dog point set screws drilled and tapped.

That looks promising

Quote from: BrushWolf on September 17, 2025, 09:48:45 AM

Quote from: Kirkll on September 16, 2025, 07:36:16 PMYears ago I used to use the limb bolt as one point of my limb alignment, and only use one location pin. But.... I was mounting the limbs with the limb bolt only, aligning the limbs, then drilling though the limb for my alignment pin hole and using an overlay to cover it. It worked great for a one off one and done bow.....  but... if you wanted to build extra limbs, or missed poundage, you were screwed. Even after gettin* a precision vertical mill set up I had issues with +or- tolerances on threaded inserts themselves, and tap drift throwing the alignment off.

I finally gave up on that method and went to 2 location pins on the riser, a standard insert, and an oversized bolt hole on the limbs. Even then I get limbs that are slightly off now and then, and need to adjust when profiling the limb using a straight edge for center line.

I wish you guys good luck using single alignment pins....  Kirk

I can see what you're saying. I had issues years ago with a 2 pin system. I never oversized the bolt hole though. How much are you over boring it for a 5/16 bolt? Since I went with the old master crafters system years ago I have had good luck with it. I've built multiple limbs for a single riser with it and never had any major issues. Really liked the system but will probably have to go with something more readily available.

You could bore the limbs 3/8" if you want using a two pin system, but I think my holes are 11/32. I go 1/2" above the bolt, and 2" below for location pins.

Years ago I had a machinist mill up some lateral adjustment hardware for using only one location pin that worked excellent for the bowyer....The problem I had was customers messing with it and causing limb twist issues down the road. I had to use those safety one way screws to keep customers from messing with it. It requires mortising the limb pad much like an ILF riser for the hardware using a router or milling machine. But it doesn't have lateral adjustment set screws like the ILF rigs do. I still have a bunch of that hardware too.

But after getting set up with a milling machine, I quit using the one location pin system completely and haven't used that hardware in years.    Kirk