I'm using true north paint and looking for some advice on how much to thin it.
I think I could get a smoother finish if it was a little thinner.
I'm new to cresting and must say it is addictive!

Thanks in advance

I haven't used Tru north, but I believe it's latex based.  I've used Bohning lacquer based products.  Regardless, I usually pour the paint I'm going to use into a very small container, sometimes just a small jar or can screw on lid, and add enough thinner to get the paint the consistency I want. I test it on a throw away shaft.  Because the paint will tend to thicken in the lid while it's being used, and because it tends to collect on the brush, I also have a small amount of cleaner in another can lid, which I dip the brush into from time to time and clear it of paint on a paper towel.You'll meed to experiment a little to find what works best for you.   

If it's latex, it simplifies matters considerably.  Just keep a small glass half full of water and swish the brush in it between uses.  When you get ready to make the next line, just wipe the brush off on a paper towel by squeezing the brush on each side with the towel and pulling it through.  The paint should be the consistency of pancake syrup, but not as thick as molasses.

When you're ready to make a line, just dip the partially dried brush into the paint, leaving a small glop of paint on the end of the brush.  If it's more than a small glop, then touch it to the side of the paint bottle until it is.  Then brace your hand in a steady position and lightly touch the brush to the spinning shaft.  It should be possible to make anywhere from a knife-edge line to as wide as the brush will allow by varying the pressure you hold against the shaft.

After spinning for 10 minutes, it should be dry enough not to run, and you can go on to the next shaft.

True North products are water born.  That's the attraction to them ....... being water born means water clean up,  and minimal odor / no toxic fumes that come with the lacquer products and the lacquer thinner required to get them to the best consistency. I have use True North products to dip and to crest.  The small jars of True North cresting paint,  should not need to be thinned.  If so,  you could use water.  The dipping paint also did not need to be thinned when I used it.   All this being said, other than it nice to not have to deal with the fume issues,  I was not crazy about the end result with True North.  I found the dip very hard to get a fish eye free finish and I found the clear sealer to want to yellow.   It is my opinion that Bohning products yield an unmatched finished product that there is no equal to.  Downside is you need sufficient ventilation, fan and mask,  with clean up that requires thinner.  It's nice to have options though.  BTW,  True Norths website states that there products are "pre thinned".

I switched to True North 12-13 years ago, the only time I've had to "thin" them is if they have sat a while and being water born the water will evaporate.  When this happens where dipping or cresting paints, I add a small amount of water and mix until I get the consistency I'm looking for.  As for any yellowing from the clear dip, or the fish eye finish, I haven't had any issues with that.  If I haven't used my dipping paints in a while I will use an old shaft or dowel and run it up and down to mix it back up, it will get some air bubbles in it, but I usually do this a day or two a head of time so I can let it set and the bubbles will rise and not be an issue.  I haven't had anything I've clear dipped yellow on me, I have some shafts I dipped in chartreuse and stained the rest of the shaft white, and clear dipped the entire shaft and both are as bright today as the day I did them. You can email Joe with any questions and he'll get back to you that day or the following day depending on time of year and what shows he may be at.

 


Jason