Howdy yall, I have been shooting my BBO quite a bit here lately, and i am not sure what i am doing wrong. Im shooting 1 over 2 under, anchoring the same, but something aint right. I can not get consistant at 10 yards. When i aim, the tip of my arrow in roughly 3" under where i want to hit because i anchor my finger in the corner of my mouth. I shoot ~100 arrows/day and this has been my problem for some time now. I can get maybe 2 arrows per set (our of 4)where i want them to go. But for me, that is not good enough. Im shooting aluminum 2217's with 100gr field point-but i dont think the arrows are the problem.

To me this is very frustrating. I have been using a compound for almost a decade now, and i am trying to incorporate a more traditional aspect into my hunting season.

Unless that BBO is about 70 lbs draw, your 2217 arrows may be too stiff. When you shoot at 20 yards does your arrow make a clean spiral flight or does it wobble and then straighten out? Shoot with some other trad folks and get some hands on help with from and arrow matching. Keep after it and good hunting!

Mike Fedora, recommends digging your chin into the shoulder of your bow arm.  I used this technique to greatly improve my consitency after having problems similar to yours.

QuoteOriginally posted by WidowEater:
Mike Fedora, recommends digging your chin into the shoulder of your bow arm.

I've got to say, "Wait a minute!"

Once, upon advice, I tried that and, no doubt, things seemed to settle down for a few ends.

I think the technique causes one to move the bow sholder up and in.  While that may seem fine when standing upright at right angles to the target, I don't think it works well in other positions -- and certainly not with heavy bows.
 
I have to say: I'm a Bob Wesley fan and think keeping your bow sholder down and out is the way to go.

YMMV.

I think you would need a really stout draw weight bow to shoot those arrows with that light tip.

what is your draw length & weight???

my bbo is 55#@26" ... What size arrow should i shoot with 100gr tips? My broadheads (magnus stingers) are 100gr too. Would switching to carbon arrows work better?

due to the weather, i am unable to shoot today...hopefully tomorrow.

I think the best advice is to get some other trad person to help you out. Its likely we will get info. over load on here trying to help.
Ok I'm stupid whats a BBO?
If your coming off of a compound you are (maybe) using the arrow to much concentrate on the target tilt the bow just enuough so more of the arrow lines up with your eye (first contradiction!) But it may help all the best.Make it fun thats why we do this!!

Wow, you need a 2016 cut to 28"s or even a 2016 cut to 28"s. Try them and I think you will see a big difference. Shawn

Im am afraid there is only 2 other traditional shooters (that i know of) in my area. They are both out of town at the moment. I tilt my bow to the right, not sure of the angle but it keeps the arrow flat against the riser. I guess i would need to see it done a few times and mimic that. would anyone know if there are any youtube vids that would help?

Cut the arrows to 28" why so long? Forgive me for asking, but the arrows i use for my compound are 26 3/4 to back of broadhead. isnt that an inch and a quarter of excess weight on the front of the arrow?

If you want your eye over the arrow try canting the bow and angling your head the same degree,it will cut that 3inches down dramaticaly.

you need to cut the arrows about 1 1/2in (minimum) longer than your draw length to clear the arrow rest and riser of the bow and make it so when the arrow is pointed with a broadhead it doesnt dig into your finger

I think the suggestion for the 28" arrow does two things.  It will help you get a weak enough spine to work with your bow, but still allow enough weight so you aren't shooting an arrow that is too light.  You may be able to go down lighter in spine to shorten the arrows more, but then they'll be getting on the light side (mass weight) for your draw weight...Mike

got ya. that makes more sense

i would go get a 2018, 2016, and 1916 full length shafts. just one of each and shoot them thru paper but you can only tune an arrow to a bow based on how well you shoot/release/form. so take some time and just experiment..get a couple of different weight field points and try. i even right down my results when tuning so i dont get mixed up and i can go back and compare later.its all part of the fun of archery:)

I shoot a 53#@26 BBO. POC's 40/45 at 27 3/4" with 125grn. Zwickeys fly perfect. I tune my arrows with broadheads. If you get perfect flight with broadheads then field points will be right down the middle.

Don't paper tune with a BBO. Fletch arrows you think will fly, leave them long and shoot them. Cut them down until they fly perfect. If the don't make it before they are too short, try again moving up or down in spine.

John III

With one over and two under anchor at the corner of your mouth and your point 3'' below your mark doesn't add up.  You must have your head really clamped down low.  It should be a bit more that, it is for most.  As far as arrow length, There is nothing wrong with shooting arrows that are close to your draw length , but it will require you to use much lighter spined  shafts than mentioned.  The 40 - 45 cedars would be a good place to start.  1916s may work as well.   It would be to your benefit to have someone familiar with the shooting style you are working towards to help with your form.

Roger. To answer your question BBO stands for bamboo backed osage. David

Thanks Big Dave that makes perfect sense