I had some floppy light 6oz leather hanging around the shop for a year or so and finally decided that even though it was on the light side I'd see how it would work for a medium/small back quiver for roving and "bunny punching".  

Since the leather had almost no stiffness to it, I'd wanna roll the top for added stiffness.  I made up a pattern out of a cut up box, 27.5" long, with a top width of 17" that tapers down to a bottom width of 14".  I laid out the leather on work table, put the template on top of the leather as a guide for my Xacto knife and cut it out.

On the unfinished side of the leather I drew a pen line 1" in from one long side, for the full side length.  Did the same for the other long side of the leather.

On both long sides of the quiver, I drew a pen line 1/4" in from the edge, for the full side length.  I put pen tick marks every inch up from the bottom, on each of those lines (two long lines per side).

I drew a pen line 1/4" in on the full length of the bottom edge. I put pen tick marks every 1/2" on that line.

I folded over the quiver top flap at 22" from the bottom, and held it in place with a few clothespins.  At every tick mark I punched a 3/16" hole.





I picked up a a pair of 72" long leather shoelaces and used some walnut aniline dye stain to color the obnoxious yellow-orange color something a bit more woods friendly.



Starting at the quiver bottom, I used just one 72" long shoelace to begin lacing it all up.  I didn't show it, but take a sharp knife/razor and cut the two ends of the lace at a low angle to make points on the ends - this makes it easier during lacing.  You can make for even easier lacing by coating those leather lace points with super glue.



Getting the laces through those FOUR folds of leather at the top cuff can be daunting.  First, enlarge those top cuff holes by sticking a piece of wood into the mouth of the quiver, align those holes that ya punched before as best ya can, and repunch 'em again.  I stuck a piece of tubing into each of those holes and used it as a guide to line up and pull out each lace.  If need be, use a pair of long nose pliers to pull out the lace.





Welp, here's where we're at for now - I'll pick this mini project up again in a day or two ...    :cool:  

Nice start Rob!

Very nice. I built one from your other one in the how to...thanks for making easy for us!

Looking good Rob!      I'm looking forward to seeing the final product!  :D

I got ambitious last night and completed the quiver.    :D    I'm gonna spend lots more time and images on making the quiver bottom(s) and straps.

I'm using heavier 9oz leather for the outer bottom.  With the bottom opened in an oval shape, it measures about 5" across and 1.625" in width.

 

I laid out the rectangular dimensions on a piece of light cardboard, cut out the rectangle, used the top of a glue bottle to radius the ends.

 

 

 

Tucked the bottom template inside the quiver's butt and put a tick mark on the template to mirror all of the quiver's bottom lace holes.  Labeled the template where the quiver lace seam is located for orientation.  Punched lace holes in the template.

 

 

 

Lay out and cut out the quiver bottom ...

 

 

 

 

Begin the bottom lacing - use a long length of lace and leave the lacing EXTREMELY loose so that ya can actually lace it all up - later you'll pull all the lacing tight ...

 

 

 

 

Wick in some thin CYA glue to hold the quiver bottom lacing knot, cut off the excess lace.





Make the inside quiver bottom outta thinner leather.





And just push and wedge that inner bottom down into the quiver.

Strap time!

I stuck in a long length of 2x3 into the mouth of the quiver 'til it hit the bottom.  On the quiver side I made a few tick marks for where the bottom strap will go - about 4" to 5" up from the quiver bottom - adjust to taste, there are no major rules for what, where and why to make and place quiver straps.  Then punch out those strap holes, driving the punch into the 2x3.

Making and adding the straps!

I just cut out two 18" to 24" strips of leather, about 1.5" wide, for the straps.  On the bottom ends of the straps I used a razor blade to fringe 'em.





First, I'll attach the bottom strap - punch in two holes on the strap bottom that'll align with the two holes I had punched in the quiver bottom side.  Then lace on the bottom strap.



I'll fold over the top strap, punch in some holes to align with the excess lacing at the top of the quiver and begin to lace it on.



I've punched in more holes to the quiver top to really tie in the upper quiver strap well.  I'm kinda riffing here, there is no planned out location for the holes, just do what seems right - there will be no wrong!



When she's laced in securely, tie off the loose ends, hit it with some thin CYA glue, trim the excess.



Shoulder yer quiver and get a feel for where the straps will join.  I wanted this to be more of a primitive quiver, with no strap buckle, joined by lacing that could be moved around to lengthen or shorten the quiver strap.

Now punch in some lace joining holes to the bottom and top straps.  Again, I just did this by eye, no measuring required or needed.



All laced up, with a piece of deer antler to use as a lace stop.

Done at last - took lots less than an hour to finish up.

Nice Rob.

Sweet!! Thanks for the pics.      

As to back quiver dimensions, again there are no hard rules.  I used to go with longer 24" and 25" lengths, but now I like a shorter 22" length for my 29" arrows (a full 32" long with broadheads) 'cause it makes getting 'em in and out of the quiver easier.  

I'm getting to like this soft leather, too - holds the arras in without rustling around and making noise.  Nice.

Here's another view of the top strap lacing ...

Oh yeah, next up will be adding a lace separator to the quiver top - one side for shooter arras, the other side for "dead arras" that'll need repair ... or, one side for blunts and the other for judos ... or, one side for two broadheads and the other for more broadheads bundled with lacing ... or, ...   :D

Nice quiver Rob! Good job!    

Rob
Thanks for the photos and details. You've got me motivated! (as if I really need another back quiver - only have four!!)
Larry

Nice job Rob...great looking quiver. My quiver is 8oz leather and I agree, super soft, pliable and absolutely no arrow rattle. Great pics too...

Yup ya gotta make 'em out of stuff that'll give some. That and wear it tight enough the leather holds the arrows in the quiver when you bend over to pick up an arrow from the ground.