Roy, why dont you come down here and give a hand then?

Don't let ol Roy rush ya. There's no hurry.

Just checked my resorcinol today and noticed its expired. Phoned the local supplier and they said its discontinued.

Noticed alot of you guys use Titebond 3.

From what ive read Titebond 3 is marketed as Alcolin Ultra here.

Anyone knows for sure?

Anyone from SA know any other bow glues locally available?

Even if your Recorsinol have expired it may still be okay. You could mix up a little and glue together two scrap pieces sligthly offset. When cured set them in a vice and hit one piece with a hammer to see if if you get a clean wood brake.

Good advice, no reason to waste good glue, it may well still be good.

The only problem with titebond is it does not fill gaps.
All surfaces have to be tight.

A lot of use unibond 800 don't know of availability for you.
Also smooth on epoxy. Both are gap filling glues.

Don't let that resourcinol near a glue-up! It's temperamental stuff. The only glue failures i've had were on two glue-ups with resourcinol that was past it's date. It tends to go a bit 'runny' when it's done for. I thought it would be ok ....but I was wrong!
Resourcinol is great glue when fresh. TB3 works great with ipe but you must have perfect mating surfaces. Perfect!

Look for a good Comercial two part epoxy. Something with a good half hour of pot life. Glue is the most important thing here.

I agree, glue is the most important.

Order some unibond 800 or smooth-on and get it shipped to you.

It's worth the money.

Boat building epoxy such as system3.
Dave.

Managed to get some fresh resorcinol today.

Ready for glue up.

2 questions:

1. Eaxctly where should i put my form posts?
The centre post wil go under the centre of the handle.
Exactly where will the mid limb posts and end posts go?
Mike recommended not putting too much reflex in for a beginner.
The bow is 61" and top limb is an inch longer than the bottom.

2. How do you secure the inner tube after wrapping it around the bow during glue up?

I would place the mid limb posts half way between the flares and tips. The end posts I place out at the ends of the limbs. After you have it clamped down, measure both limb tips from the base of your form to the same place on each tip. Make them both the same height by sliding one or the other in a little to get them both the same height. I've never used inner tubes so can't help ya there.

On the inner tube strips. Usually mine are about 12 inches long.
Start by over lapping one end pull very tight and wrap forward barely overlaping the last wrap. Keep pulling tight and wrapping. When you get to the end use the spring clamp.
Start another. I alsoadd spring clamps where it looks like they are needed.

Onthe position of mid limb posts.
According to Dean Torges, closer tothemidlimb point for a hunting bow and closer to the tips for a faster target bow.

Reccomend  16" from center of handle for hunting bow.

Ismail, this is a poor example.
Here I have a couple of light weight kids BBI bows glued up.

With your heavier bow I would use many more clamps.

Get the picture, thanks.

One thing need to clarify regarding the mid limb posts...if one post is for example 16" down the bottom limb, will the other post be 17" down the top (longer) limb?

That could be answered better by Roy or Bowjunkie.
I have been making mine the same length.

I think the mid limb posts would both still be at 16 " ? From center of handle.

Both ways would change the dynamics of the bow differently.

Lets see, maybe Roy or one of the other guys who make longer top limbs can shed some light.

The difference would only be 1/2 inch, you will never notice it.