Good thinking, Mac..

Was busy squaring up the form posts and cutting the bases last night.

Macbow is right, maybe should leave the tip bending for this one. Hard to resist though.

When you guys are throwing around words like 'static recurves' and 'reflex tips' around a novice, finding it very challenging to resist all them 'curves'.

Ipe is very stiff so you might run into problems if you expect it to conform to your form shape. Not that i've seen it yet but I strongly suggest not going to 'extreme' with the shape. That's why tri lams are so much better for this style of bow when using ipe (or any stiff wood).

With a form like Roy and I use up to 3/8 inch on Ipe works pretty well. Once you go past that going with a tri lam would be much better.

Here are 2 of my form posts:



There is a tiny height difference that I just cannot seem to get right. Reason is, I have an ancient table saw...with no fence. Have to free hand all the cuts.

Nevertheless, took all the warnings about getting a 'wonky' bow to heart. Will try and put that right.

Since its obvious that all you old timer bow builders prefer a trilam over a single piece backed bow, I found a piece of hickory that can use for a trilam. Here it is on the left of the Ipe:



Thinking maybe should do the trilam...?

Hope I'm not boring you guys out with the slow progress.

Kind of savouring all the gangs input getting the ground work sorted out.

Dont get too much time to work on bow making everyday, so not rushing it.

No rush, it is a learning process and the guys here are chock full of invaluable insights. I am enjoying this thread and am excited to watch as it progresses!

Whether I elected to make a trilam instead of a backed ipe bow would depend on the thickness of the pieces and whether I had the means and ability to rip/resaw them and accurately thickness, taper, and surface them. I don't mean to talk you out of it, but if it isn't executed adequately, you'll likely set yourself up for trouble.

Bows constructed with 2 pieces, like a belly core of ipe and a bamboo backing, can be shaped into wonderful deflex/reflex profiles at glue up... especially if the core isn't much thicker than it needs to be to make weight.

I've bent and held osage in such shapes with enough wood to make 70+lb bows.

Amen!

Then I'll stick with the Ipe backed bamboo. Don't want to bite off more than I can chew.

With regards to your tablesaw, you can make a fence by clamping a straight piece of wood across the table. Clamp it at both ends and make sure it is parallel to the blade. It's a bit more time consuming than a regular fence, but it will make the saw safer to use and more accurate.
When I was young, my Dad had an old saw which had a fence, but it wasn't much better than a piece of wood with clamps. I would set it by measuring from the fence to the leading edge of the blade. Them to make sure it was parallel, I would measure from the fence to the T-slot at the front and back of the table.
Dave.

Thanks Wood Carver,will have to put something together for that fence. Frustrating not being able to get a straight cut.

Need to get some clamps tomm for my bow making. Currently, only have 6 medium size C-clamps.

Planning to get 15 to 20 more medium clamps and 4 large bar clamps.

Should I get C-clamps or squeeze clamps?

Innertubes from your local bike shop. Don't buy any just ask for the old tubes from fixing punctures, they will be free and work superbly for this job. Wrap one full elngth of the lams in one direction then do another wrap but going in the opposite direction - this is so you don't get a twist put into your lams. Pull on them until you feel the 'end of the elasticity' to get the right pressure. If you do this you will get flawless gluelines.
Clamps work....obviously but without a decent pressure strip and enough of them (one every 3 - 4 inch minimum) you run the risk of improperly clamped lams. Do not use those squeeze clamps - pretty much a waste of money but they are good for keeping your lams parallel whilst clamping/taping.
Before everybody bites my head off for pointing out the limitations of clamps....I used them for years then made the switch to tubes. You are less likely to run into problems using tubes because they give you such an even clamping force. Clamps on the other hand become looser during the time the glue cures and if you don't get the initial tightness right you can run into problems. They also make your form weigh a ton when it comes to putting it in the oven to dry.
Saving that make a proper (!) form and use a hose  

Mike, you start wrapping from the middle working towards the ends or from one end to the other?

I use alot of spring clamps. In addition I use the bycycle inner tube strips about a foot long. Wrap tight and use a spring clampto hold.

I don't use a oven. If the temp is above 75 degrees over night just clampand wait.
If it is colld like it is here now I use 2 100 watt lights protectedby wire cage and coverit all with sleeping bags.
Nice and toasty.

Only reason I don't use the C clamps is the weight and cost.

You can't ownenought clamps.

QuoteOriginally posted by macbow:
I use alot of spring clamps. In addition I use the bycycle inner tube strips about a foot long. Wrap tight and use a spring clampto hold.

I don't use a oven. If the temp is above 75 degrees over night just clampand wait.
If it is colld like it is here now I use 2 100 watt lights protectedby wire cage and coverit all with sleeping bags.
Nice and toasty.

Only reason I don't use the C clamps is the weight and cost.

You can't own enought clamps.

Don't know if you noticed but whenyou get ready for glue up.
Have some plastic  wrap lay it out and assemble your glue up on it then wrap arounf to keep all glue squeeze out off your form.

Ok so its spring clamps and inner tubes.

Right now im trying to get the ipe to exact width.

Supposed to be 12.7mm width.

In some places its 13mm, others its 12mm, and in some its 11.5mm

Can i bring it to 11.5mm throughout?

Them11.5 is plenty thick enough.
If one surface is flat use that side to glue to the bamboo backing. You will be removing belly material as you tiller anyway.
Do you have a nelt sander?