I have built some broadheads. Now I am having trouble getting them to attach to the end of my arrow.

I used some 5min epoxy the kind that comes with twin tubes and is supposed to mix and stick. Well 12 hrs later it still isnt stuck. I was in a cold garge around 50degress. But moved the arrow to cure in the house overnight. Didnt work.

What do you use to get a good metal to wood hold. I was hoping for something you could find anywhere (Home Depot etc). After I get them to hold I will be adding a brad or maybe 2 to the leading edge thru the shaft and broadhead.

Any help thanks

Some pictures below

prototype

These are painted blanks
 

Left bevel grind. Top one 190 griz
 

Head temporarily mounted using hot glue. Paint melted and bubbled. Need diferent paint. But 5min epoxy didnt hold for this arrow to head connection.

 

Good looking heads there Jack! Try some cold blue on your points instead of paint. And go with the two-ton epoxy which will give you a little more work time. I like to place a thread (upholstery) wrap behind my heads for added security and coat with epoxy as well. Trick is to lay the epoxy out with heat and run off any excess if necessary.  Be sure to clean your heads with lacquer before epoxing.-ART B

Thanks Art, the thread behind the broadhead is a good idea. I split one shaft just trying the head for fit. Cold blue like used on gun barrels? Will pick up some two-ton tomorrow.

Again Thanks

I use JB Weld on mine. They don't go anywhere.

Gun barrel bluing is correct Jack. Should have mentioned, that's the "30 min." two-ton epoxy. I use a 15oo watt electric heater set on low to lay the epoxy out and accelerate set-up time.

Thought about using the JB weld Shovelbuck but it's jell time is rather long. Can you accelerate it with heat like the 30 min. two-ton epoxy? -ART B

Thank you gentilmen. I will try this weekend. I hope to have several heads ready for turkey opener here in WY on the 16th.

I never tried speeding it up. I just glue them up and wait till the next day for the next part of the build process.

Having trouble finding 2 ton epoxy here in Cheyenne. Have found 30 min epoxy but it doesnt say 2 ton. Will try one more place on Sat. Found gun blue, and found JB Weld may have to try the JB it is readly available. Goning to strip off paint and use gun blue this weekend.

Going turkey scouting Sat morning.

I believe I would try the 30 min epoxy Jack. Do a little experimenting with the stuff first if that's what you go with. Mix some up for a test and see how it flows and it's set-up time. I can do one head about every 20 min with the Devcon 30 min two-ton epoxy I use. Would hate to have to set longer then that twirling the shaft to keep the runny epoxy uniform. Instructions on the JB Weld I believe specify around 2 hrs jell time even with heat. The ol' memory isn't what it use to be so you may want to check that.-ART B

If you cut a hafting grove in the back of the head,hide glue and sinew will hold on most heads,I have used the combination of real sinew and hide gule successfully for many years.If I knew how to add a pic here I would show example.

Acraglas  from brownells it is made for bedding gun actions and barrels 24hr dri time and 20+ year shelf life the best and strongest also comes with black or brown dye

Used Zip strip and removed paint. Then use cold blue good idea Art B. I am going to try some JB Weld and some 30 min epoxy both.

Indanguy I have been thinking of the cut at the back of the head to heft with. Maybe on my next 6 I make. It would give them a more primitive/period whatever one may want to call it look.

Jack,
I have used both two ton epoxy and JB Weld and found that my trade points would sometimes break the bond and turn sideways on impact.  The one time it happened on a deer it still went completely through and killed it, but I decided I had to find a better method to attach them.  Kent Brown provided a fix for the problem; I now drill two holes on both sides of the point/shaft and use sinew to tie it into place in addition to the epoxy to JB Weld.  Here are a couple of drawings that might help explain it better:

Those are mice looking points. I used to use 2 ton and nylon thread to hold the point. I found, like Walt, that epoxy wasn't enough. The past few years I've used pine pitch to seat the head, a wrap of sinew and then a coating of hide glue. When dry I put more pitch on for waterproofing. More on my site. Jawge
http://mysite.verizon.net/georgeandjoni/

Nice looking points. I use the artificial sinew then coat with a layer of super glue. The glue dries clear and you can't even tell it's on. I'm sure it's the same with the other glues, I just had super glue on hand. I also sg the heads to the shaft before wrapping. I make a longer tang and let it stand just a little proud of the shaft. Art B's the one that got me goin with these, thanks Art.......
Dave

Walt Frances what a great idea I was going to try and make a slit down to the shaft and heft that way, but the drilled holes are a great way to do it.

I wrapped some artifical sinew below 3 of the points and braided fishing line below another. I find them thick.

I think I will drill holes on the heads I JB Welded and heft with artifical sinew per Walt.

Mr Tsoukalas I visit your site often and use your experence and info.

More Photos

JB Weld all broadheads have had the paint stripped and cold blue used. These I will drill and heft
 

30min Epoxy with wrap at back of head.
 

Thanks to all for you suggestions and support

Happy to help Dave. How are you liking 'em?

Main thing (besides adhesive) with hafting trade points is to have a good transition from blade to ferrule and a strong sturdy wrap behind the head. Looks like you got both those requirements covered Jack. For a smaller dia wrap you might want to go with a heavy duty thread wrap such as jean or upholstery thread. A good soaking of super glue over the thread works very well too. -ART B

Art B where would one find upholstery thread? And what do you think of B-50 would it be strong enough? I have used it to reinforce my self nocks.

I buy my upholstery thread (jean thread is very strong also) mostly from Wal-mart's craft and fabric section. But any craft or fabric shop should have it. The B-50 will work I'm sure but the stuff does have a certain amount of wax in it. Slippage could be a big problem under a hard impact if the thread isn't adhered well.

I test my heads, willingly and unwillingly, into trees and stumps and I've never had a super glue thread wrap (wrap first then saturate with SG, wipe excess off with paper towel) fail. I also use the upholstery thread for wrapping suspect area on self-bows.-ART B.

Some last photos of the finished product thanks to help here. Really thanks to all.

Holes drilled and hefted with artifical sinew. JB Weld then 30epoxey over wrap.


Shot of broadheads


Broadheads and arrows


Lethal weapons ready for Turkey's