then I definitely need to change my grooves.
most force is on the overlay...

I'll try to get some pics up soon....well later tonight..
I'm pretty ashamed of the grooves right now..kinda hate to take a pic of em..
I'll have from about 8:30pm to 9:45 to get a little done today.
   

Here's some pics of my ugly tips..

Amount of string follow...

Braced..
Looks weird in this pic..bad angle..
 

At 24"... Doesn't look like it in the pic, but when I put my level across the tips are right in line with each other..

She's pulling 44# at 24-25".
Need to keep tillering then adjust the draw weight.
Shooting for 45# 28"
 

gotta get it bending closer to the riser on the right.
and more bending in the middle and tip of the left

not much farther to go.
dont pull past your intended draw weight
tiller to 45@27 and by the time ya do  the finish work youll be real close to 45@ 28
your real close to having a shooter
by the way your string grooves dont look that bad
ive gotten in a jacked up hurry and done much worse
kevin

I would imagine sir, you have been learning quite a bit about tiller 101.... looking good.

I appreciate the encouragement guys.

Sure am Mike....Thanks to all the helpful people on this site.

I'm really looking forward to trying out my REAL scraper that should be in my mailbox soon.
I've been using one I made..it works..but the steel isn't the best.

I do have a question..

What's more important..
Having my tips be in a straight line when drawn or having equal amount of bend in them?

I'd like to get the left limb bending more evenly. I have a slight hinge in that limb at about 1/3 in from the tips.

I'm worried that once I get an even bend that side will be weaker and pull back farther, as they are about dead even now.

I'm thinking of getting the limb bending correctly as priority one.
Then evenly sand/scrape the strong limb till they match up distance wise.

Is that how it's done for the final tillering?
Worried I might go a bit under weight..but we'll see...

Thanks

John

Often the top limb is left a little weaker so that when braced the string is 1/8" farther from the riser at the top of the riser than at the bottom of the riser.

Also, it's important that each limb bends evenly along its length.

Having both limbs bending evenly along their length, and heaving the limbs matched in stiffness will make sure every bit of the bow is doing its share of the work. This makes the bow most durable.

makes sense.

Thank you.

are you using a tillering gizmo?

Yeppers.

What a wonderful little device!

Right limb is gorgeous.  Match the left to it and you are good to go.  I'd say 10 scrapes at a time in the middle until they match and then go for weight.

yeah Zradix that thing makes it easy! and it shows that you are using it. looks real good to me and you already know where touchups are needed.

Thanks guys.

Looks like I might have time to scrape a bit tonight.
Looks like the kids soccer practice will be canceled as it's raining cats and dogs over here.

Have to admit..I'm kinda dreading shaping the grip.
I have ZERO wood working skill....or useable tools really.
I think I'll have LOTS of time sanding this thing with sandpaper wrapped around tubes, blocks..whatever looks about the right shape..lol

I know it'll break the hearts of some purists..but I do plan on cutting a shelf on this one.

Going to have a weird looking grip too.

I shoot with a very straight wrist.
My thought is since my pressure point is basically just under the shelf, I'll put the center of the bow right between my grip and the top of the shelf.

Thinking this should make for a well balance bow....  

Something along these VERY rough "ciphering" pics...
I really don't think I'm going to do the shelf quite so deep....that pic looks scary as hell don't it?..lol
Just something to rest an arrow on...but also I'd like to get my hand in the center of the bow...still thinking on this one...