The fact is, I need a longer than production arrow    :(    .  I draw a real 32+", leaving less than 1/2" of arrow at the shelf on a factory Heritage. I actually will pull a field point on the shelf - different story with broadheads...tends to get bloody    :eek:    .  I have been thinking of footing a carbon with a couple inch section of aluminum (say 2-3" bonded to the shaft and another 2" extending out front.  Any thoughts here?  Am I mad?         Any suggestions for a glue?

I'm just not quite ready to go to wood, and I dare say, those will be a problem to get too.

Thanks if you got ideas.        

BobW

Man I wish I had that problem......


Just try it. As long as you have two inches epoxied onto the carbon and then say an inch over with the alluminum insert installed I dont see why it wouldnt work. I say give it a shot, shoot it a bunch of times into a stump or a piece of wood and see what happens.

I fixed a couple of broken beman mfx arrows that way , 6 inches of 2018 and two part epoxy and it worked great. I left two inches overhang to get the length needed.

Try to brush the inside of the aluminum and the outside of the carbon with a wire brush to slightly score the surfaces. Should help the epoxy adhere better. Good luck.

I would be worried about splippage after a few impacts. Maybe a piece of wood shaft in between the carbon and aluminum insert?
Either way, I think you are on to something. Endless possibilities as to extreme FOC....
Keep us posted.

frickin sasquatch. just get some javelins and Ostrich  feathers and be done with it. LOL

I believe if you use J-B Weld and clean the surfaces they will bond for a lot of normal shooting. If you insist on shooting into concrete walls it may give in a few years, grin.
It's tough stuff, give it a try..

I had better luck with JB weld on my carbons that I footed than I did with epoxy. I think after I roughed them up I would use acetone or alcohol to clean up both surfaces to insure a good bond.

I have repaired broken arrows that way. Instead of the hollow aluminum shaft, insert another piece of wood shaft into the front and leave enough for a point taper. Works great.

I have done this on some carbon I cut short.  Done have JB weld, but I used loctite liquid weld.  It is about same.  Worked really well.  Just make sure the insert is snug against the blunt end of the carbon.  I few I did not have the insert right against the carbon and the aluminum flared out when I hit something real hard (it happens sometimes).  But the epoxy held tight.

I have done this on some carbon I cut short.  Done have JB weld, but I used loctite liquid weld.  It is about same.  Worked really well.  Just make sure the insert is snug against the blunt end of the carbon.  I few I did not have the insert right against the carbon and the aluminum flared out when I hit something real hard (it happens sometimes).  But the epoxy held tight.

I was looking around for something to make an INternal Footed carbon and came across the 3' tall driveway reflectors that are on a white plastic post.  It is the perfect diameter to fit snug inside the carbon shaft.  For extending the shaft and footing it at the same time, just glue a 6-8" piece inside your existing shaft and leave 2" sticking out then glue a 3-3 1/2" piece of shaft on the front.  Make sure you match up the IF to the end of the insert so they become one piece.  

Brent

QuoteOriginally posted by bbassi:
frickin sasquatch. just get some javelins and Ostrich  feathers and be done with it. LOL

I take some offense to that...I'd prefer to be called "gorilla arms" or "knuckle dragger"...LOL!!

Josh

can you reach down and scratch your ankles with out bending over???  

Take a small section of shaft to the local HVAC supply house and find a double male barbed connecter (brass) for pneumatic lines that fits snug inside. You could epoxy these in and add a few inches and some point weight at the same time.