Sorry if this has been asked before.

I have never done any bareshaft tuning.  From my reading here and on other sites, it seems to be about 50/50 on those that do and those that don't.

So here's my question.  I have some Gold Tip 55/75 shafts and I want to try my hand at bareshaft tuning.  Do I have to bareshaft each individual shaft or when I find the correct length and point weight, will that be the "setting" for all of them?  Also, if I buy another dozen of the same shaft, will they be the same or will I need to bareshaft them as well?

I love bareshaft.  I just got done bareshafting some 5575's myself.  I used the gold tip wieght system to accomplish the tune.  I basically will shoot fletched and bare and get them to be close to same point of impact at 15 yards.  I like the bare arrows to show slightly weak because I will add feathers to them.

But the trick of bareshaft is you need to be able to hit consistently at 15 yards.  At least horizontally.

When I first started traditional 3 years ago, I had so many problems, that I couldn't hit consistently and couldn't bareshaft tune.

And with carbons or aluminums, you only need to bareshaft with 2 arrows.  

With my 60# zipper, I ended up with 20gr of wieght plus 200gr point up front and 50gr plus nock adaptor on back.  For a 600 gr arrow.

You only need to bare shaft with one arrow. EDIT (If you're somewhat consistant.)

this   link   will answer any questions you might have.

Good luck,

Todd

IMHO If you have a spine tester and a grain scale, bareshafting one or two is sufficient provided the rest are reasonably the same spec.
From personal experience I would not assume that all the shafts will be all that close regardless of material-when I tried to convert to carbons a while back I had shafts from the same batch that were not even close(high dollar stuff). If you want good flight and you are going to bareshaft to get it, don't make assumptions about a manufacturer's QC.

I've read all of O.L.'s information.  He mentions shooting groups, but doesn't say if all of them need to be tested or not.  I've never seen anyone doing this either, so I'm fairly unfamiliar with the process.  I was hoping to be able to bareshaft with 2-3 and then cut the rest to the same length and use the same inserts and points and get comparible flight.

I find it very interesting that many need so much weight up front to make it shoot with correct spine.  I may need to drop to a weaker spine.  I'm shooting a 55# bow and I don't want to shoot 600 gr arrows.  I'm trying to stay at 500-550 gr.

I shoot 5575 also, I will start out with three bare shafts and three fletched. Start out at 15 yards, shoot a group with the fletched shafts. Next shoot the bare shafts. If the bare shafts group in with the fletched shafts your good to go. If the bare shafts group to the left of your fletched shafts you need more point weight or a weaker spine. If the bare shafts group right of the fletched group, you need less point weight or astiffer spine. The reason for at least three shafts of each, is every one has flaws in their form. One arrow can hit the target 5 different ways on 5 different shots. Groups will tell the truth. Hope this helps

It depends on how consistant your shooting is.I use one shaft but know when it is me or the shaft that is not flying right.  :D  If unsure or maybe not a good shot yet use 3 arrows and gauge things by the groups.Make sure your nocs are not to tight on the string or it will through your results off.The farther you can shoot them the better and easier it is to see slight changes like point weight while tuning.jmo

The ones that use a lot of point weight do it because they are either trying to get a heavy arrow or they started with the wrong spine to begin with.I shoot heavier spines so I can shoot the larger broadheads and they weigh more.For target arrows however I use weaker spined shafts or leave them longer to shoot more normal point weights.Just depends on what you want.

Jeff use OLs planing method as the nock orientation is tough unless your release is perfect. I have not had good luck with GTs, they are sometimes as much as 8-10#s off in spine form one dozen. It may have changed but when I tried them a few years back they were terrible. Carbon Express are usually very close and Carbonwoods used to be, but have not shot them lately. You can get by with 6 shafts, 3 flecthed and 3 bareshaft and follow OLs method. Do not shoot to many groups at a time though as your brain will adjust and the bareshafts will start hiiting closer to the bullseye. I shoot 2 groups of each and than tune from there and go back later and see how well I do after making my adjustments, whether cutting the shafts some or adding more point weight,etc,etc.. Shawn

I've experimented with OL's method and that's what I intend to use.  I just haven't fully committed to doing bareshafting yet.

Seems like a good idea.

One caveat: if your form is not pretty good, bareshafting won't tell you much.  You need a good release; if you pluck the string, you will be chasing your tail from now till the Rapture trying to bareshaft arrows!

I have to totally agree with diamond here.  When I first started shooting traditional, I struggled at bareshaft, and shooting thru paper.  

Best thing I can always suggest to new people, not sure rok is, is to just shoot what you got, and try to notice arrow flight.

Paul , I agree, I see people torque the string sometimes too, but I still like bare shafting with no fletch ...

I basically said what Paul said, but the planing method  can be used with a less than perfect release and ya can still get good results, as to where the paper tuning or nock orientation method is almost impossible without a perfect release. Shawn