I had a string break on a fiberglass recurve and this is what resulted:



So do you think it's salvagable, and if so, how?

thanks,

Steve

No, That one is history. Although no one wants a bow to break, it's a good reason to get another one.

Why couldn't you fill it with glue or epoxy and clamp it.
Thats what I would do? Of course I dont know any better but hey what would I have to loose. It is already broken.

Kelly, the only thing you could loose is an eye and maybe shatter a limb when it breaks again.

If it isn't a high poundage bow, I'd be tempted to do a careful glue up on it and see how it turns out....  Just my $.02

It looks like it's a takedown and if it is you could build another riser and use the limbs of this one. Or you could pick up an old compound riser and make the limbs fit it.

Thanks Greg,
Hard hat and safty goggles (check)  

looks like a warf bow in the making

Steve who made the bow? You might want to talk to the boyer about a replacement handle, I'll be he would cut you a deal.
Terry

Not worth smacking your self in the eye or something when it breaks again after the glue up. Call the bowyer and tell him EXACTLY what happened bet he helps you out.

Goodluck

If you have some wood working tools like a sander and band saw. I'd glue it back together well enough to make a pattern and then make another one, but would ad some phenolic strips for strength.
Should be able to use the old bolt on hardware.

Ron

Thanks everyone.  After thinking it over more and reading all the opinions, I guess I'll try my hand at making another riser for the limbs.  I believe that the bowyer is no longer making bows and I wouldn't ask him anyway after the experiences that several of my friends had with him.

To this point all of my bow building experience is with selfbows so this will be something new for me.  Also, since the bow will ultimately be for my oldest son, I think I'll get him involved as well.

Again, thanks for your replies.

macbow has an important point about adding phenolic to the riser for strength. If you don't want to attempt a curved accent stripe like what was in the original you can do a straight cut and add it that way. I like to split the riser 90 degrees from the way it is done on your original riser. Then glue it together with phenolic in between the 2 pieces. I like to add a 1/2" piece of hard maple between 2 pieces of phenolic for heavier draw weights. The other alternative that is good and strong is to use actionwood for the riser.
Take pictures and show us what you come up with. Wishing you the best.

Look like firewood to me.

That bow is done!  Looks like it gave way in reddish wood that was used for the accent stripe.  

Perhaps a new riser may work, but those things are tricky to fit.

Steven, I was recently in the same boat.  My riser wasn't broken, but I didn't like it (cold metal riser and high-wrist grip).  Without any experience I was able to glue up a wood riser (with accent stripes) and just started whittlin' on it.  I used the old riser as a pattern for the limb beds and used an old bow I had for the low-wrist grip pattern.  I bought the hardware, glass strips, and Smooth-On glue from Bingham Projects and used wood (ash) that I had already.  Total cost-about $30.
 

I once had a riser very similar to that one break and hit me in mouth and stomach at the same time. That one was made out of hickory.  I'm blaming it on the desing.  I think the best designs for takedowns are the ones that don't have that cutout for the limbs.  I'm not saying they don't work, I just don't trust them.