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@#$% &*(% Hickory Stave

Started by Jack Guard, June 22, 2010, 08:24:00 PM

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Jack Guard

Hey Yall,    :wavey: ,  I have a pretty decent Hickory stave I have had for several years. OK OK, I have had it for 6 years.  It has a nice 1.5 inch deflex built into it.  When I floor tiller it, the limbs seem to take a set.  I can get the set back to its original deflex just by pushing gently in the opposite direction.  I understand Hickory is rather hydroscopic but this is ridiculous.     :banghead:   Its like a dang al dente noodle.  

I am thinking i can put it in a drying box (which I have yet to build) to remove some of the moisture between tillering sessions.  

So i guess i am asking....

  :)   Is this normal ?
  :)   What am i in for when i finally get this baby    tillered.
  :)   Should i consider backing it.  

Here is a quick pic, not very telling, of the stave.  

TGMM Family of the Bow
Proud Member of the Twister Twelve

John Scifres

That's weird.  How heavy is it?  Never pull it too soon.  And never pull it past your draw weight.
Take a kid hunting!

TGMM Family of the Bow

Jack Guard

I have only floor tillered it about 3 inches so far, have not put it on a tillering stick or tree.
TGMM Family of the Bow
Proud Member of the Twister Twelve

Eric Krewson

It appears you picked too narrow a bow profile for hickory. You need the limbs to be at least 1 1/2" wide. You can go narrower if you glue on a backing in a reflex.

Jack Guard

The limbs are right at 1.5 inches for the first 10 inches after the handle fade.  

So Eric, what type of backing do you think would be best.  I know that's subjective.  Rawhide, sinew, a hickory slat ?
TGMM Family of the Bow
Proud Member of the Twister Twelve

bigcountry

Do not push opposite on a bow you just had braced.  Again, do not do it.

Guess how I know?

SoNevada Archer

I've had good luck with raw hide on hickory.
The doom of man...that he forgets!

Dean Marlow

Jack I have had the same problem on my last 2 attempts on Hickory also. I am o.k. up to about 40lbs. Then after that terrible set. My staves are over a year old but they were in my shop all winter and I think they took on a bunch of moisture. I live in Illinois and it is wet here all the time any more. I really think that you can't hardly get Hickory dry enough around here where I live. I need to make a hot box for my Hickory. Dean
Dean Marlow

Eric Krewson

The limbs should be at least 1 1/2" wide(1 3/4" would be better) for most of the limb length, tapering about a foot from the tips to 1/2" nocks. Hickory makes a poor ELB type bow. It needs a flat belly instead of a rounded one.

You could flatten the back and glue on a strip of bamboo while adding about 3" of reflex during glue-up and have a screamer. I have made 3 or 4 of these in the last few years, none over 1 1/4" wide, all retained an inch of reflex after being shot in.

Jack Guard

Eric, sounds great.  I have three pieces of bamboo i have been dieing to try out.  

I bought the stave already profiled.  I guess i should have left it in a more rectangular configuration.  

Oh well, good reason to use that bamboo.  

Thanks a bunch everyone.  Jack
TGMM Family of the Bow
Proud Member of the Twister Twelve

DCM

I say you need to build the hot box.  I have found (in Memphis, Tn) that I literally cannot get hickory too dry, and most often not dry enough.  Man tall 1 1/2" hickory will make a 60# @ 28" imho.  I'd vote too wet.

How long is it, how much bow do you want?

Build the hot box, or at least find a place where you can achieve 40% or less, sustained 24/7, or where it might range 20% to 50% during the daily cycle.  

All that said, I have run into batch of hickory (from up North) that was a lot less dense than what we get around here.

Pennsyltuckey pete

I have a drying tube that I use.  Stove pipe mounted over a light bulb.  cost about $15 to build

pete
Love one woman, Many Bows

chuck172

By the looks of that picture, the bow is WAY to long for you!

Brock

I made a hot box but use it vertical with light bulb in bottom...adjustable vents on two sides near top...and have a temp and humidity gauge hanging in middle of door.  I can also put a tin cup of water in bottom if it gets too dry...

so far so good.  Hickory is hydroscopic and sucks up water from air like a sponge...
Keep em sharp,

Ron Herman
Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Backcountry Hunters & Anglers
PBS Assoc since 1988
NRA Life
USAF Retired (1984-2004)

barley40

I found that hickory must be as dry as you can get it. Simple way it in the attic or in a vehicle out in the sun. It just won't dry much just standing indoors. Most locations have too much inherent moisture and unsealed hickory absorbs it. Hickory will not take a set more than other woods if dry before bending and tillered properly. Use alcohol based stain and Tung Oil Finish. Never put anything on hickory that would add moisture.


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