I have been shooting my new Miller Split Bamboo. 66" 45#@28". You would think it was a glass bow, it is not lacking for performance.

It came with a little arrow holder leather tab on the arrow shelf to keep the arrrow on, I guess. It was kicking all my arrows to the right by about a foot, stacked all on top of eachother. I tried different point weights until I just smashed it flat with my thumb to see if it was getting in the way and...yup, bingo. Man was I frustrated for a few minutes there!

My arrows liked a 125gr point, but I feel 10gpp is a little light, so I may try to cut a 1/2-1" or so to get up to a 145gr head with the tapered cedars. At a 5.5" brace and dacron with 10gpp arrows, it is already quiet and a pleasure to shoot.

So I shoot a lot, but this bow is a little different than my other Hill style bows...they are all glass and standard straight limbs. This one seems to be a little finicky on the grip, but it is one damn accurate bow. They all shoot where you look, but I am impressed how tight the groups were. Maybe the lighter draw weight, I am not sure. I noticed that when I grip the bow, if I have even a tiny bit of pressure to the right of the very back apex of the bow (rt handed), it will group to the right a few inches. I don't seem to have to be so careful with the other hills. I wonder if it a little wider grip so more prone to torque. It is comfy though.

I usually like a 68 or 70" bow, but Miller said a 66" would act like a 68" due to the design, and I think he was right on.

What a neat bow and I thought it would be cool to have something a little different...

OS

Sounds like a nice one Matt. I don't remember you showing me that gem at the shoot last weekend     have fun with it and lets have a look at it at the GLLI eh?  

you got it Chuck. My arrows were kicking and I didn't feel like playing with it in the 3D course. I had to aim about a foot to the left of where I wanted to hit, so I just switched and shot my redman. I had not shot it with the newly made up arrows so I didn't know there would be any issues. It bare shafted fine. Oh well, a little more playing and I think it will be great. The downside of the wood bows is people with a 32" draw can't shoot my bow!! LOL Sorry Chuck, Miller said don't draw it past where you draw to shoot it! You don't want to add any set to the limbs. I will likely be shooting it at GLLI!

Quick question for ya guys as far as bow tuning goes.  My arrows are grouping well and flying pretty good but I was wondering if it is possible to get them coming off the bow as smooth as my recurve.  I have a 3/16 past center Lee and the arrows come off with no wobble and starts spinning instanly and my broadheads fly perfect no matter the type.  No on my Hill they sometimes wobble and the down hen feather is getting some visble wear on them which on my other bows I have never had before.  So am I tuned or do I still have some more to do to get it just right.  
Thanks.

I would look at tuning. My feathers don't wear and all I shoot is Hills. Grip issues create torque and arrow mis-tuning too. Also, I usually see just a slight recovery but not a wobble down range. It should really be almost imperceptible.  When tuned right, usually they look perfect. I use my own feather shape, kind of like a banana pope and young mix from my burner so they are not small like parabolic.

With the feather wear I would guess slightly overspined am I thinking correct?

Around what page in this thread was there a discussion about types of bowstrings used? Thanks.

Rob DiStefano,

Is there any way to modify the Tradgang search feature options so we could do a search for words or phrases only in this thread?

This thread is large enough and full of enough great information to warrant it, and man would it be handy for those of us wanting to find something that might have been discussed way back on page 66 or 187 or. . .

QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
Rob DiStefano,

Is there any way to modify the Tradgang search feature options so we could do a search for words or phrases only in this thread?

This thread is large enough and full of enough great information to warrant it, and man would it be handy for those of us wanting to find something that might have been discussed way back on page 66 or 187 or. . .

the ONLY way to search just this thread, and no other threads on powwow, was if this thread was contained within it's own forum and segregated from the powwow and all other forums.

QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
 

QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
Rob DiStefano,

Is there any way to modify the Tradgang search feature options so we could do a search for words or phrases only in this thread?

This thread is large enough and full of enough great information to warrant it, and man would it be handy for those of us wanting to find something that might have been discussed way back on page 66 or 187 or. . .

the ONLY way to search just this thread, and no other threads on powwow, was if this thread was contained within it's own forum and segregated from the powwow and all other forums. [/b]

If there is to be a vote taken as to whether to do something like this or not... I vote NO!

Thank you!

God bless,Mudd

I agree. I prefer this as a highly visible thread and not a separate forum.

Here's a YES vote for a forum.   You can't follow a specific topic through this thing unless you want to make it a life's work.   It's fun and I check it daily, but I consider anything posted yesterday as simply lost forever.    There are plenty of participants and I think a lot to be gained by the organization a forum would provide.   $.02

well, we could have it both ways ...

create an 'hh bug' forum that contains a copy of this entire thread.  it would be a 'read only' forum, just used for searching out data.  this thread, here on powwow, wouldn't change in any way, and would used as the 'seed' for the thread copy forum.  

however, the copy would need to be updated reasonably often, at least once a month ....

I think  Rob's suggestion above is a good compromise for all of us.  It's a win/win, except for Rob of course since he'd have to do the updates.  No worries though this is his full time job.  Hey Rob, do we make your head do this sometimes?      

I vote YES for this system.

QuoteOriginally posted by mikebiz:
I think  Rob's suggestion above is a good compromise for all of us.  It's a win/win, except for Rob of course since he'd have to do the updates.  No worries though this is his full time job.  Hey Rob, do we make your head do this sometimes?      

I vote YES for this system.

x2

So far as feather wear, shoot instinctively and play with head weights if you can. I usually try 125, 160, 190 gr. Try to make the arrow  do something predictable and then tweak it until perfect. I use arrow impact with broadheads to guide my actions. Then field points will be really close of the same weight.  Sometimes a 145 piled pt will be good when a 160 broadhead was perfect so there can be variation for example. I say shoot instinctively because you don't want to correct impact location by aiming, but by arrow tuning. That's what I do, hope I was more clear than MUDD (no offense MUDD)!

So I guess I didn't mention impact left is stiff shaft, impact right is weak with broadheads.  Up and down is nock pt adjustment. Make sure flight and impact is consistent and perfect and shoot at 20 yds so there is room for the arrow to react fully. Nock too low will cause more issues than too high

That sounds like the way to go to me but I haven't been a major contributor on this thread.

QuoteOriginally posted by smoke1953:
That sounds like the way to go to me but I haven't been a major contributor on this thread.

that wouldn't matter one bit.  what matters is that any trad gang member can search directly through this thread alone for something very specific about howard hill bows, and all matters that pertain to american flat longbows.

a serchable read-only copy of this thread can now be found in the  HOWARD HILL  forum.

HOWEVER, the thread search engine will not be activated until i take the system down and resync the search engine.  should be good to go by mid morning tomorrow.