One thing I am wondering before I start, if I start with 30" shafts and I need to cut the bare shaft (to weak)do I also cut the fletched shaft
and then proceed.
Terry

Shoot at least two group with both, than if the bareshafts show weak cut them first and shoot again with the flectched shafts check results than cut fletched shafts and test again. this is just to double check yourself. Shawn

The key to this method is eliminating variables and shooting groups.  Use a toothpick taped to the window if needed to give a "pin" type reference to your shooting.  Try not to change your form because you're tuning...once you get groups that show one indication or the other (weak, for example)...make CERTAIN you repeat it for several ends and get the same reading.  When you determine it's time to cut, cut a LITTLE BIT at a time and cut all the shafts at once, otherwise you'll be essentially shooting "apples" with "oranges".
-Rob

You can also use lighter or heavier points to verify before cutting.

Steve

I bare shaft tune but I never adjust my arrow length as it effects my sight window and throws me all off.

I use point weight to fine tune - I have points weighing from 65 to 250 grains for tuning. I shoot carbons now and have three shaft different  sets (heavy, medium, light). If I can't get tuned I move up or down in shaft set.

Good points guys....although...I find tuning with point weight is much more difficult with carbons than with other shafting.  Carbons respond much quicker to a change in length than point weight.  Just something to keep in mind if you go from 100s to 125s and don't see an appreciable change, for example.
-Rob

Thanks for the info guy's.
I know for sure the arrow I got a full lenght are to weak a full lenght with 125gr tip. I also know I want alot of weight up front and want a shorter shaft 29" or so. So I will be cutting these for sure.
Terry

I start out with the point weight/arrow weight that you want to shoot, and adjust from there. I don't base my bareshaft tuning on how well they group with the fletched arrows. I just concentrate on making sure the bareshaft flies as straight as possible without any veering to the left or right. Once I get that down, THEN I fletch 'em up and concentrate on shooting accuracy.

I remember reading something in Byron Fergunson's book if you gap shoot that you want to use the same length arrows all the time. I don't gap shoot but I always want the same sight picture so I don't have to think about my shot.
For me the less variables the better.

T Folts,

Ok...no expert, but one thing I learned through a lot of work, mistakes and phone calls years back to OL, is that indeed, WHATEVER you do to the bare, you ALSO do to the fletched.

The whole process is "diagnosis by comparison" between fletched and bare!!

If they're showing weak, you can take a sliver of anything... toothpick, etc or just use elect. tape, to build up the sideplate...same effect as shortening...

...and much safer. As Dad used to say to me as a kid, "cut it 3 times and it's still too short, huh, kid?"

The key, OL used to say, is to be as far away from the target as you can still get measurable groups! If you're not grouping either bare of fletched...move closer till you do. Then start diagnosis.

Remember, shortening arrow, reducing point weight or increasing sideplate thickness corrects weak spine. Lengthening arrow, decreasing sideplate thickness or increasing point weight corrects stiff spine.

I messed with sideplate a lot, after ruining a bunch of shafts cutting them prematurely. Then once I get it corrected and KNOW that is the issue, shooting good groups with the adjustments made to sideplate, then....only then, do I ever CUT arrows!

Other neat thing with using sideplate corrections is that as I learned to use more back tension and "worked the bag" I found my draw increased. Thankfully, then my arrows weren't all cut too short..just reversed the sideplate material changes.  

Doc
Thanks for the info, I'll keep that in mind
Terry