Once all my feathers are on, I cut off the back end of each feather with a pair of sharp, small scissors. I only do this, though, because I really can't stand the back of each feather tickling my nose.

 

Now I follow up by cutting a small section of feather the hieght I wish the back end of each fletch to be. In this case, it's a full inch...

 

Once I know where to start, I cut each fletch to shape. I do it by eye, but you can use a cardboard stencil of some sort to get your desired shape.

With a quick wrap of nylon thread below the nock, all coated with super glue, the nock is quickly reinforced and insured against breakage. Now then...

 

...it's on to the best part of the arrow; the point...

Here's a quick shot of the points I have on hand.

 

The first three (left-right: Magnus Snuffer broadhead, .38 pistol casing, and sharpened wingnut) are my favorite heads for small game. The last two (left-right: Ace Hex Head and our own NorthShoreLB's Tarantula head) are being tested right now, although I have high hopes for both and can't wait to put them through they're paces.

I think I'll use a .38 in this case. I've always felt these pistol cases are the most versatile of small game heads. Pretty high level of "killbility", too.

 

Now to show you all how I put these bad boys on, and also how I bump up the weight...

Well, putting 'em on isn't the problem. It's getting the weight bumped up to where I like it. After all, these casings are pretty light in the weight department.



I start out with my pistol casing as 4, inch-long pieces of solder. This seems to give me a good amount of "heft" to the end of my shaft. All four pieces are placed in the casing, which in turn is held over a kitchen range...



...until all four pieces have melted and now form a plug that sits on the bottom of the casing. From there, it's only a quick dab of hot melt to attach it to the end of the shaft.

Now, that's about it for the tip. Usually, I prefer a blade of some sort on the end to increase lethality. In fact, that's what I intend on doing for the JLMBH. But the arrows are also destined for alot of blade-snapping stump shots, so for now I'll leave the tips as is.
However, should you want to add a blade, all you need to do is make a short cut in the casing's end with a hacksaw and insert/ glue in a blade of some sort. Anything will work...bleeder blades, sharpened banding steel, even sracp sheet metal if you're looking for a way to get rid of some. My preference though, are these:

 

I believe they're called C-clips. Pretty cheap, and easy to find in any local hardware store. Not to mention, they're made of a nice carbon steel, so they hold an edge really nicely. Tougher option than an old Bear Bleeder, too...

Well done Chris        

See ya soon

That my friend is one cool build along! Well done!

Can you show how the C-clip is used and what it looks like on the head Please? Thank you!
God bless,Mudd

Thanks guys...

I'll get right on that tonight, Mudd. No problem...

Well, that's pretty much it. Here's picks of one of my finished S.G.S's...

 

Was even able to add my fourth and final feather dispite not having my jig at the moment. Just took a little fletch tape, a keen eye, and a prayer that I wouldn't mess up fletching by hand. Didn't turn out too bad...

 

And here's the business end...

 

So get out there and make some. They're cheap, they're tough, and they're quick & easy to make. I think I feel comfortable saying under two hours for each shaft. And that's me...I like doing things slow, stopping every 5 minutes for a glass of sweet tea and some reflection. All in all, pretty easy.
They kill quick, they hit hard, and they look good enough that I carry them in my quiver with pride. Not to mention, when I loose 'em, you don't see me crying for an hour over 'em like I do with my carbons .          

Have fun with 'em, guys...

Thanks, a great build a long!

Chris, very cool!! Now lets hope one of them connects to a bunny. Shawn

Right on Bowspirit!  Very informational...i'm sure i'll try my hand on a few soon!

Here ya go, Mudd!



Like I said, just make a kerf with a hacksaw and slip the blade in. A little superglue in there and you're good to go.
How ya seat the Clip is up to you. The lower you go, the more durable it'll be. I prefer this position, though, because it winds up doing alot more cutting to whatever it hits. If it pops out, so be it. I'll just be out $0.50 to $0.75...

Great build along. Think I'll have to make some up this weekend

Thanks for all the great replies. To all you who wanna try their hand at making some, be sure to post some pics. I'd really love to see 'em...

Very nice build along and appreciate the extra tips - will be hopefully implementing some of them soon.  

One item I thought might be of interest is for adding weight to the tips.  As the casings are quite light, I have found that using 1/4 lead wire (purchased in your local fishing store), you can easily cut about 1/4 to 3/8" length then using a pair of pliers, just squeeze the ends together and it squeezes to a small cylinder shape.  You can then just stuff it in the end of the casing and glue onto the shaft.  I use the lead wire for making lead balls for my wrist rocket that I sometimes carry for grouse - just using pliers you can easily shape them into 1/4" to 3/8" lead balls - very heavy and effective and will go clean through a bird.

Not a bad idea, Karl. I'll have to try that the next time I run out of solder...