3Rivers Archery




The Trad Gang Digital Market














Contribute to Trad Gang and Access the Classifieds!

Become a Trad Gang Sponsor!

Traditional Archery for Bowhunters




RIGHT HAND BOWS CLASSIFIEDS

LEFT HAND BOWS CLASSIFIEDS

TRAD GANG CLASSIFIEDS ACCESS


Main Menu

Need help deciding core wood

Started by Ari_Bonn, September 08, 2017, 07:57:00 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

2treks

I like most of the woods listed. Some I like better for short bows, some I like better for longer bows. I do think its more about design and build.
Danny, Its funny you mention the laminated hardwoods. I just carried a literal ton of wood into the shop, and I am trying to decide how I am going to use some of it. A vertical lamination panel was talked about. We'll see
C.A.Deshler
United States Navy.
1986-1990


"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter."
~ Francis Chan

nek4me

Red Elm. Had a Dan Quillian Canebrake that has a reputation of being fast and smooth. Search/Google it and those characteristics will be prevalent. Sure, it was the result of his design but he could have used any wood and chose Red Elm to complement the design.


Blackstick

I have had two of the same identical bows. One was made with maple and the other with a bamboo core. The only difference, I thought the maple was quieter.

David McLendon

One of the fastest bows that I ever owned was a Dan Quillian Canebrake.
Lefties are the only ones who hold the bow in the right hand.

Sirius Black

I'm in the 90+% mentioned by The Whittler!
Wisconsin Bowhunters Association - Life Member

nineworlds9

So much of it is dependent on bow design and how the cores are tapered.

I currently have bows with bamboo and red elm.  All shoot sensationally and are from top level bowyers.  My red elm core recurve is a screamer and very sweet to shoot.

I've always loved elm and walnut cores, they seem to be a great alternative to boo.  Can't go wrong with yew either.
52" Texas Recurve
58" Two Tracks Ogemaw
60" Toelke Chinook
62" Tall Tines Stickflinger
64" Big Jim Mountain Monarch
64" Poison Dart LB
66" Wes Wallace Royal
            
Horse Creek TAC, GA
TBOF

IdahoCurt

There is so much variation in cell structure within the same species of wood it's almost impossible to give a definitive answer on this.I personally love Yew but have processed multiple sets of core lamination's in the same thickness from different boards and they will all weigh very different.
Having said that,on average raw bamboo(not actionboo) and yew seem to consistently weigh less than any other woods I've used,less mass equals a faster limb.
I doubt the difference in core woods will translate to more than a few ft/sec between them all with limb design being more of an influence on speed.
Foam gives you the most consistent results in my experience.

Holm-Made

I've been using quite a bit of quarter sawn walnut for cores lately and really like it.  Looks good too.

bluemelonchitlin

Revelation 3:20

riser

I'm a curious sort. I'm in the group that feels design trumps material.

What I am interested in is: material vs material at equal design.

I like hard facts to make decisions.

Are there any bowyer's or individuals who have chronographed SIMILAR design bows (same design, draw weight, same amo, same arrow etc), HAVING DIFFERENT LIMB MATERIAL ( ie bamboo vs elm vs maple vs "limb material of choice")?

Real chrono data requested.  Anyone?
Behavior accepted, is behavior repeated.

Bvas

I have been following this thread out of curiosity to see what woods would be suggested.  I have made only a handful of bows myself and find this subject very intriguing.
I don't know how much corewood affects the performance of a fiberglass bow, nor do I think that anyone else has a 100% guarantee on any specific differences in different woods.

And I want to start off by saying that I'm not arguing anybody's suggested wood type. Buuuuuut, if you have a fast design and want to smooth it out, that could be a completely different core from if you want to maintain performance but still be as smooth as possible.
Basically, wood that is heavy and flexible will be smooth. Wood that is light and stiff will yield higher speeds.

Wood that is light, stiff and bends smooth as silk...... that's the bowyers dream. And I believe it is called Mongolian Tulip Wood.
Some hunt to survive; some survive to hunt

Roy from Pa


Mike Mecredy

I can't help with the chrony numbers, I don't have one. The high quality ones are pretty costly. I don't see the point in buying a piece of equipment for $300+ so it'll tell me that one bow is shooting 5 fps faster or slower than another.  But having made as many bows as I have, and having shot them all, I've got a good idea of what performs great, what performs good, and what I wouldn't recommend using.  It's very important to me that the bow I send my customer, performs as best as it can, so I tried several woods and bamboos and have learned what I can rely on. I've shot fast bows and slow bows, and after shooting several thousand (mine and other's) I can tell what is and isn't.  

A simple test I do with laminations when I make them, is I'll bend it around into a full circle, them let it go and if it springs back to the straight shape it was before I did it, then it's a good material.  I can do that because I usually use full length laminations.  The woods that are slow to string back, can have too much moisture, or just not have the compression/tension strength I need.  Those ones will still work but the bow will perform sluggishly.  

Chronograph numbers are great and all, and I'm not saying you're "that guy" Riser, but in the end, guys would still be "taking my word for it" I've seen others do it, and the data still wasn't "good enough". (another reason I don't spend the $$ on a chrony)
TGMM Family of the bow
USAF, Retired
A.C.B.C.S.

cacciatore

Mike I see you a chrony will tell you the speed of a already made limb with your metod you'll know before the wood becomes a limb
1993 PBS Regular
Compton
CBA
CSTAS

Mike Mecredy

I've never, (other than in my sub conscious) applied that logic to it, but it makes sense.
TGMM Family of the bow
USAF, Retired
A.C.B.C.S.

2treks

I would lean toward agreeing with Mike. But i will go that one step further.
After building and shooting several 1000 bows, with all manner of materials, in any given design, any of the good materials will shoot very close.
Bad materials will shoot poorer.
I still think that design and build execution are most vital.
Some designs like certain materials better than others, some are not fussy at all.
Feel, sound, speed, looks....Takes a skill to bring it all together and there is generally a fine line for the trade offs.
Thats why I like bow making and talking bow making.
C.A.Deshler
United States Navy.
1986-1990


"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter."
~ Francis Chan

Trout man

I think Bamboo is the smoothest wood,but Yew is right p there

mec lineman

Most boaters tend to agree on this topic. From my limited experience, I also think design is paramount.  For example I currently own a fantastic shooting bow in all categories that sports one thick lam of HICKORY.
"Pick a spot,now aim 6" lower!"                        
Caribow taiga ex
Tall Tines Stickflinger
Yellowstone Halfbreed

P.B.S  member

mec lineman

Most bowyers  tend to agree on this topic. From my limited experience, I also think design is paramount.  For example I currently own a fantastic shooting bow in all categories that sports one thick lam of HICKORY.
"Pick a spot,now aim 6" lower!"                        
Caribow taiga ex
Tall Tines Stickflinger
Yellowstone Halfbreed

P.B.S  member

NBK

I've found the best core wood to be what the bowyer making it recommends.
Mike


"I belong anywhere but in between"


Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | User Agreement
Copyright 2003 thru 2025 ~ Trad Gang.com ©