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Flemish string making by Clay Hayes. Has anyone made one this way?

Started by longbow fanatic 1, February 20, 2017, 07:24:00 PM

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longbow fanatic 1


Orion

Must admit that I haven't made them that way.  Seems like extra work to make and tie in the second loop. May be an old world way of making a string.  

Rolling the string on the leg keeps the two bundles separate, which I don't think makes for the best string.  By making the first loop in the standard way, then back twisting the strands before making the second loop, all of the strands form one smooth bundle when you twist them later.  This is a stronger construction I think, i.e., one cable of 14 strands vs two cables of 7 strands wound around each other.  I could be wrong.

Regardless, no doubt that either construction method is sufficient.


Gordon Jabben

That was a cool video.  I don't make my strings that way but I think I will give it a try.

LBR

I don't see the point?  Like Orion noted, two 7 strand cables wrapped around each other.

Msturm

I learned this way. but I skip the leg rolling part and make it all one bundle.(WAY FASTER) The video was really helpful  in figuring out how to make the second loop.

Msturm
Stalker Coyote FXT Long bow 49#

Aloha!

CRS

Interesting,  would work in a pinch.  Not the first method I would use.

If you twist individual bundles(leg rolling) in a 2 or 3 bundle/color string it keeps the colors separated and makes for a barber shop pole looking string.

I have also blended all the colors together to create a mottled effect.

I have not noticed any difference in performance.
Inquiring minds.......

Hud

I learned how to do it that way many years ago,  from an old magazine article. The YouTube is much easier to learn from for sure.
TGMM Family of the Bow

Roy from Pa

I would not use that method either. The string is going to look like a rope.

rraming

Not how I learned and I could never switch methods now. Would not think serving would be smooth all twisted like that but may as Orion said, maybe it's stronger. Most likely if most guys bought a string like that they would return it since it's different.

longbow fanatic 1

QuoteOriginally posted by LBR:
I don't see the point?  Like Orion noted, two 7 strand cables wrapped around each other.
Do you use this method to make your strings? The point is that I wasn't aware you could make a flemish string without a string jig.

SteveB

You can make a string without a jig without doing the leg roll to get a cable. Jig simply gives you one way to get tapered ends and a consistent measurement.

ChuckC

You don't need a jig, but does make it easier to cut out slightly tapered lengths.  They don't HAVE to be tapered, but sure look better that way.

If you measure your current string, then add 9-10" to each side ( twenty inches total), that is pretty close to the length each strand needs to be.  You can also make it longer than you need, tie one loop, then make a timber hitch on the other end for the second loop.

I don't know enough about whether one is stronger or better.  Nice to know another way.  It comes down to....does it work and do you like it that way.

Orion

What Steve B and Chuck said.  It's very easy to make a flemish string without a jig. I've just driven two nails into a 2x4 to wrap the string around to get two bundles.  

On one Idaho hunting trip, I made a string by wrapping the line from one cut off stub branch to another on a tree limb to make a string for another hunter.  He came on a Western hunt with no backup string and he cut the one that was on his bow.

On those I make in the field, I sometimes don't taper the individual strands on the end, but leave an inch or so of the thread unbraided to act as string silencers.

rraming

I just measure one string with a yard stick and taper the rest, both strands. I have a jig but don't like how long the tapers are and I do mine about 1/4". Was always easier doing what I do

LBR

QuoteDo you use this method to make your strings? The point is that I wasn't aware you could make a flemish string without a string jig.
Not at all--honestly to me, the finished string looked awful and I'm guessing it will be noisier.  No reason to use that method with any kind of "modern" string material, but it might be a requirement to get natural fibers to work.

Making a Flemish string without a jig is no biggie--I have done that many times.  The jig is just a measuring stick.  To get the taper, you just drop strands as you go, or you can stagger the strands manually after you cut them.  If I were going to make a knot for the second loop, a timber hitch (bowyer's knot) works as well and is pretty simple.

Mo_coon-catcher

I just lay out the adjustable tiller string that is adjusted to what I need. Or of o know the length I lay out a two measure. I lay out a strand that runs the lengh of my hand from pinky tip to thumb tip past the final length on each side. Then I make however many bundles I want off this length. Then I twist up one loop inI'll it barely fits on the nock I'll twist it in. Then after every 3 or so twists ill kick out a strand until the tied in bundle is about 5" long. I'll teist in an extra inch past the last tag end. Then I'll put a clip on to hold the loop in place while I reverse twist each bundle by about how many twists I pulled out to make it have no twist. I usually run D97 strings so I make the loop at the same length as the final string so that by te time I get the bundles twisted together and the entire string twisted. It should be about 1" shorter than the final length I want. Then I put a dowel rod in each loop and pry it apart between my feet and hands. This usually settles in that inch the string was short by. Sometimes I miss and have to redo. But this works for me. And I don't have to worry about each bundle being the perfect length. since if my locking twist starts to get too long I can jus kick out the strands quicker and trim them off later.

Kyle

longbow fanatic 1

QuoteOriginally posted by Orion:
What Steve B and Chuck said.  It's very easy to make a flemish string without a jig. I've just driven two nails into a 2x4 to wrap the string around to get two bundles.  

On one Idaho hunting trip, I made a string by wrapping the line from one cut off stub branch to another on a tree limb to make a string for another hunter.  He came on a Western hunt with no backup string and he cut the one that was on his bow.

On those I make in the field, I sometimes don't taper the individual strands on the end, but leave an inch or so of the thread unbraided to act as string silencers.
Jerry, you sure saved that hunter's hunt. It sure seems like a handy skill to learn in case of a string failure. Of course it's always smart to have a backup string, but you never know what may happen.

I've never made a string that way, but because of my lack of ability to get the back twist thing correctly, when I build a string it usually ends up with the "rope" effect look like that!     :knothead:    

Bisch

YosemiteSam

I make my selfbow strings this way with B50.  Learned it from the video.  Works well enough for me.  I'm not picky about how pretty it all looks and don't mind if there's some frayed ends.  It's more about function and doing it myself than looking pretty.  To me, bows and hunting equipment are like trucks -- if you're afraid of how it looks, you forgot the point of owning it in the first place.  

I still use a purchased fast flight string on my recurves -- mostly for the performance boost.  Noise-wise, my selfbows are still quieter by themselves with my rope-string than my recurves with string silencers on them.  But that's probably more in spite of the string than because of it.

But I love this method.  I can do it in the house with no tools other than a spool of serving thread.
"A good hunter...that's somebody the animals COME to."
"Every animal knows way more than you do." -- by a Koyukon hunter, as quoted by R. Nelson.


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