Okay - so I've always been of the camp that a well placed quiver does not impact arrow tune.  All of my recurves shoot the same with or without the respective quiver I have mounted.  I bought my first custom long bow a few weeks ago and have got arrows bare shaft tuning nearly perfect after much effort.  I put my quiver of choice on and the arrow corkscrewed like crazy - both fletched and bare shaft.  It changed the spine and the  vertical travel of the arrow a LOT.

It's WELL under the fades and onto the riser section.  This is a mild R/D long bow.  I have EFA, Kanati, Selway, and Great Northern quivers - all produced the same result unfortunately.  

Anyone experience this before - is it as simple as retuning to the quiver?  I don't really want to do that, as I don't think it should change that much (again, I've never owned a bow that once tune, the quiver mattered on or off).  

What your experiences and thoughts?

From what I've observed, it depends on bow mass and depth of shelf cut.  On a lightweight bow like a longbow with the shelf cut out from center, adding a bowquiver will require a lighter spine for me.  Seems to make much less difference with a bow cut to center.  I like a bowquiver so I always tune my bow with the quiver installed and loaded.  Whether to retune or come up with a different quiver option is up to you, either way works.

I have a K-Mag that will change about 5# less with a quiver mounted .

I had that problem once and fixed it by tuning with the quiver on and one arrow short of full.  It was tunable but it bothered me so much i never used a bow quiver again.

Yes I have experienced this. I sent back that quiver right away and refuse to shoot with any quiver mounted to my bow anymore.

A quiver that's mounted to the side of the the riser will torque the bow counter clockwise causing your bareshafts to hit left or show stiff.

I'm surprised that it showed up on your longbow though, normally the torque will not show up on a longbow but will show up on a recurve due to how easily you can torque a recurve.

Maybe look into a front quiver (mounts to the front of the bow and would act more or less like a stabilizer).

Used numerous bow quivers on a plethora of bows....never an issue...not once.

Sorry you are having to deal with this and that I can't help.

QuoteOriginally posted by forestdweller:


A quiver that's mounted to the side of the the riser will torque the bow counter clockwise causing your bareshafts to hit left or show stiff.

That statement is not an absolute.....

Maybe the word 'can' should be used instead of 'will'.

Quotewill change about 5# less with a quiver mounted .
 

2x made the same experience

I always shoot with a bow quiver so obviously I tune with the bow quiver on and wouldn't notice any difference. I would think there would be a change, same as if you change brace height or string material or strands.

I have had it happen before. I have also seen change going from a heavy 5 arrow slide on, to a lightweight 3 arrow strap on.

My PLX shoots the same with or without a quiver.

Yes, I've had it happen to longbows. I'm sure it has something to do with how each person grips the bow....I gave up on bow quivers.

I'd just shoot the bow bare.  That being said, I've heard a couple bowyers state that on certain bows they can actually show measurable changes in the amount the risers flex at the fade outs with a quiver vs without a quiver.

Try increasing your brace height 1/4 in. See what that does. It seems,to help me a little. I tuned my bow and arrows without the quiver. And I may may be towards the stiff side of spine. Adding a quiver full of arrows does throw it off. Increasing my brace height does help. But my bow is more forgiving for me without the quiver.

You guys got me wondering also but I just went and tested 3 recurves, my bob lee, image and Great Plains all with thunderhorns  Can't notice any tuning difference. Sorry your having this issue. Wish I could help

QuoteOriginally posted by Mint:
I always shoot with a bow quiver so obviously I tune with the bow quiver on and wouldn't notice any difference.  

Same here.

QuoteOriginally posted by crazynate:
You guys got me wondering also but I just went and tested 3 recurves, my bob lee, image and Great Plains all with thunderhorns  Can't notice any tuning difference. Sorry your having this issue. Wish I could help

Same here up until now - all the recurves I've ever owned, and 2 R/D long bows in the past have all shot the same with or without the quiver.  This one however is not just different with or without the quiver - it's a LOT different.  

Guess I'll keep tinkering and retune with the quiver on.

Can you post a picture of the quiver mounted on the bow?

I have noticed the same thing. I now only use a strap on quiver with one of my bows.  a catquiver mini is now my choice.

Several years ago I did some testing with a friend of mine. We were shooting two different bows and two different quivers. Both quivers were 4 arrow. At 12 yds we both had the same results with multiple shots. With the EFA bow quiver there was no difference in the way the bow shot. With a competitor bow quiver we both consistently impacted about 3" left. A week or so later I tried another heavier (different competitor) bow quiver and surprisingly saw no difference.

It left me thinking that the dynamics involved were more complicated than just weight. Factors like how it fastens to the bow, position on the bow including distance to the side of the bow, and  front to back, weight of the bow, position of the handle, etc. Other factors might be the weight of the arrow being shot, and shooting style of the archer. Some will grip the handle more tightly than others. Some will shoot with their bow arm straight, and others with that arm slightly bent.

I believe that all of these things can be a factor. At EFA we try to keep the weight end of the quiver (hood) as close to the riser as possible, and the weight and size of the quiver as small as is feasible. As with bow design, bow quiver design will be a topic to discuss for a long time.