I ordered my first doz. of Doug Fur shafts and was curious what others use to prep the shafts. I've seen that archery websites sell arrow stain and lacquer, but does anyone use products from the hardware store instead? If so, what do you use? I'm particularly interested in the techniques you all use to seal the shafts. Do you use a paint brush to coat on the lacquer or do you use a wipe on rag...?

I'm interested in trying to make my own arrows as well looking forward to others replies

I just recently started making my own arrows and I'm no expert so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I lightly sand my arrow shafts down with 000 steel wool. Then I use minwax stain then use steel wool again. Then use min wax poly to seal them. Three coats using the steel wool between each. Fletch then shoot!
Again I'm no expert and I'm open to advice! But I sure love making arrows!

Michael,
Thanks! How do you apply the Min Wax poly to the shafts? Dip, wipe on...?

Minwax stain & dipped O.B. poly

I've done quite a few.

I use an alcohol based stain (water is fine too)I just happened to buy alcohol.
After a light sanding, I apply stain with a rag or with a foam brush.(They get darker with the foam brush)
I let them dry for a couple of days and give it a light sand with steel wool again.
Wipe them off with a clean rag and start the first coat of sealant.
My favorite is polycrylic.
I dip them in a pvc pipe and hang them to drip until dry. (I like to reduce the poly with water)This helps it run faster down the shaft.
I apply 5 coats with a light sanding with steelwool in between coats.
If cresting, I do 4 coats, then crest, then apply the last coat of poly over the cresting. It lasts longer. Just make sure you let the cresting dry at least overnight to avoid any trouble.
Thats how I like to do it.
I've done them with gasket laquer too.
On that one you do need the dipping tube with the rubber squeegee-like cap.
These dry fast.
I would do 3 coats, one arrow after the other for the whole dozen until done. Let it dry overnight, crest, let the cresting dry for a day, and apply the last coat.
You will learn the hard way if you don't let that cresting dry completely. I promise.

Thanks, guys!

Manuel,
Can you post a picture of your pvc dip tube or describe the length and circumference?

I use mostly Minwax stains that I apply with a rag.  I've also used Watco oil to stain and add weight to cedar shafts.  Works pretty good as a sealer as well if 4-5 coats are applied with plenty of time to dry in-between.  

I have normally used Bohning clear blue lacquer in a  dip tube to seal, 2 coats. The fumes from the lacquer are beginning to get to me though so I'm looking for a different sealer.

I have used minwax polycrylic, a water based, low smell finish that I've wiped on.  I expect it would also work dipped.  Just haven't tried it that way yet.

Guys,
I am preparing to start building my own wood arrows, as well.

I found this in the "How-To Resources" section on the forum home page.  There is a lot of information that you all clearly know, as you are well ahead of me in the learning process, but there are several Q & A segments where the information you are looking for is discussed.  You can scroll through the pages pretty quickly, to easily find the areas of interest.

I hope it helps you as much as it did me.

Minwax stain and minwax poly 3 coats with steel wool rubbing in between each coat,I apply both with a small foam brush,never had any issues doing it this way.

Up until this year been a using Bohning Laq. for cap dip. For rest of shaft min wax stain and dip whole shaft in GL. BUT had issues with GL. So I went with Min Wax polycrillic, water based. I also am trying to get away from Fletch Laq fumes.
Got a doz. shafts I am going to try Tru North water based paint on. I would like to go water based all the way, easy clean up and low fumes, smell.

I too use Minwax stain and water based sealer. I use a sponge brush to apply both.

Good luck with making your wood arrows.

Longbow fanatic,
I just wipe mine on on with a cloth. I also think Rob Distifano did a great tutorial on here as well.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000119;p=1

Min wax stain from Walmart and then gloss wipe on poly.  All applied with a piece of an old shirt and steel wool between coats.

Minwax stain and wipe on poly for me as well.

I use pretty much all water based products.  The only exception is sometimes I do the initial sealing with zinser shellac.  My steps are as below

1.  If they are getting stain it goes on first.  Always water based.  Next, Seal with shellac or minwax wipe on water based poly.  If sealed with shellac it's three coats rubbed with 0000 steel wool between.  Then three coats of poly rubbed also with 0000.  If I don't use the shellac, they get four coats of poly.  It's all wiped on with paper towels.  Disposable and cheap!!

2.  Next the crown section is taped off with masking tape and the crown wiped on with paper towels using water based acrylic paint from Hobby lobby or Wally's (99¢ to 1.69¢ with huge color selection).  One or two coats depending on coverage.  Then the cresting with the same type of paint.

3.  Next, two or three more coats of clear poly over the entire shaft each rubbed with 0000.

4.  Ready to Fletch!  I use mostly full length feathers, Duco and a burner.  Using water based has allowed me to do this at the kitchen table with no complaints from the spouse.... Except feather burning!  

I like economy and easy clean up.

Here's a few ready to Fletch.

 

And after fletching.

 

I use ware based stains and aneline dyes, they both work well. The aneline dyes powder is harmful so use caution. I've made hundreds of shafts from the Surewood boys! I think the aneline works better and better color options, I get all of them from Woodcraft. Two bottles will last longer than you, I have four- ha!
I buy nuts, bolts and grills from the hardware store.

I'm still old school and use Fletch Lac,I like leather dye the most and never had a problem with lacquer I also usually just buy those "old" touch up automotive can paint that's lacquer based as cresting paint,I'll spray some in the can lid already thinned an ready for cresting.

Another for minwax stain and wipe on poly. I use a cheap foam brush for the stain and cotton tshirt material to wipe on poly. I actually do 5 coats of poly just because I like the high gloss look. I have some with only 3 coats though that have held up for years. Lightly sand with 0000 steel wool and then wipe down with 91% isopropyl alcohol between coats. It says to allow 3-4 hours dry time, usually it's more like 6-8 and sometimes 12 plus depending on humidity. You can tell it's time when they're no longer tacky. Definitely recommend Rob's tutorial referenced above! One last thought... don't immediately throw out the used foam brush. Take the foam off and it makes an excellent stir stick for the stain next time.

Cory, I've found the same thing with the wipe on poly.  On a hot day with low humidity it can dry in an hour.  Cold and rainy (like today