P.O. Cedar, for Heavy bows 3/8" full length tapered, for mortal weight bows 11/32" with 9" tail taper, 150g broadheads, 3 fletch paras, up to 6" in length.   850g efoc??  I highly doubt.

An all wood is the best shooting, a glass bow is the workhorse.

3/8 and made of Birch with white fletch I think I remember reading.No crest.

Kinda what I shoot but I don't use birch-yet
CTT

QuoteOriginally posted by Goshawkin:
Jesus, Don't forget,let me know if you decide to sell her! She'll look real good in my Timberline collection.    

I don't have a collection, but that is one cool looking Pete George.  Willing to start now, keep me in mind in the future.

I get some hand shock from my Checkmate Golden Hawk, 68" 60@28. I'm hoping that increasing weight will tame it somewhat. Interested in trying douglas fir shafts, maybe with 75gr. woodyweights and 160 gr Stos. My first post trad friends. Cheers.

QuoteOriginally posted by mikebiz:
Hey nineworlds9 I call dibs on that Miller if you don't like it.  Right at my specs      
That's a beautiful one.  Good luck with it.  David Miller is arguably the best out there.  I love his bows.

And rushlush that Pete George is the nicest, cleanest one I've seen.  That thing looks mint.   How long did somebody have that hidden in a closet?  Great score on that one.  Not many Timberlines out there.  Too heavy for me or I'd be battling Goshawkin for it.  He has quite a collection there.  I know some of his bows.

Haha Mike I'll have to put you down first on the list, but FYI it might be a long wait...  :D

QuoteOriginally posted by Brianlocal3:
 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=005763  

Check this out.  Arne is amazing with his grip tutorial

Thanks Brian!

Owein,I was born and raised in BC myselk.I,ve got a goldenhawk LB,68"-64#@28".I,ve got a SBD,10 strand D10 string down to 6" brace height shooting 660 gr.douglas Fir with 175 gr up front and using 2219 alum. 4" of oak dowelling up the front and 200 gr. pionts.A nice tight grip with a bent elbow ,no problem at all.Get that brace height 6" or under,really helps.

Hello swampthing, I have to agree, I love shooting my hickory bow. Many thanks to the late Jeremiah Rethereford for his friendship and guidance. His bow is 66" 60#@28. Not a speed demon but great cast and may be getting a bit quicker as it ages.

Thanks Steve. I may have my Golden Hawk a bit tight at 6 3/4". Really believe in boosting my arrow weight as well.

QuoteOriginally posted by Hawken1911:
HOWARD HILL'S ARROWS???

Hi Gang,

Does anyone know the design specs of the arrows Howard Hill shot, assuming he had a signature arrow?  All I can make out from a lot of old photos is that he used parabolic fletching and all three feathers were barred.  Does anyone know of anything else that would have been 'typical' for him regarding feather, crown, cresting and stain colors, etc.?  I'm mostly interested in the overall 'look' of his typical arrows.

Thanks,

Paul

Most of the arrows that I've seen have been all white with white feathers. I know that Jerry Hill said Howard liked 6" parabolic feathers.

I'll look through Bob Burton's book "Howard Hill Collectible's" later today to see if there's some pics of Howard's arrows.

Directly from the "How to Make Arrows" in Hunting the Hard Way:

Good Port Orford cedar shafts shoot the best for me of all woods I have tried. For an extra heavy bow I use a 3/8-inch shaft. Starting at the front end I straight taper this shaft from 3/8 inch to 11/32 inch at the nock end; for a light bow a shaft staight-tapered from 11/32 inch at the front end to 5/16 inch at the nock end is big enough.  

He used 5-5 1/2" parabolic feathers and in pictures I've seen both barred and white on Howard's arrows.  

I just finished this chapter this morning.  Some other interesting points from "How to Make Arrows":

1) Use the lightest head possible and keep the head weight 150gn maximum. Of course all that went out the window when he decided to shoot elephants.

2) We all know about the 3:1 ratio broadheads, but he said to never use a broadhead wider than 1 1/4" (3 3/4" long max).

3) Howard preferred broadheads with a slightly CONCAVE edge vs. straight.  He found it to provide better penetration than a straight edged head.  I find this interesting as we often see debates about concave heads like Simmons Sharks which I intend to use.  Now these aren't true 3:1 heads, and they are more deeply concave, but we've all seen photos of the damage they do.

4) Howard mentioned metal alloy arrow shafts.  He mentions that he believes that they may be superior to wood shafts, but felt "that arrows of wood are more in keeping with the real spirit of old-time archery and require more of the archer himself than a more modern arrow; maybe that is a silly reason for shooting wood arrows, but most of us archers are silly, one way or another.  Call it sentiment if you like."  I wonder if he would have tried HMPE strings or just stuck with linen?

One final point and this is by far his most important teaching from this chapter.  There is a chart in that chapter which gives suggested width/length of broadhead for bows of given draw weights.  For bows with draw weights below 50# Howard placed them in the section for Women's Bows.  So today I learned from Howard that I'm a girl.  That really made my day     .

QuoteFor bows with draw weights below 50# Howard placed them in the section for Women's Bows. So today I learned from Howard that I'm a girl. That really made my day.

 

Thanks for all the info regarding the arrows guys!

 Well I learned today that I am barely a man.

Pete George learned from John Shulz. I've heard that John said Pete was the best that he taught.
His bows are deep cored with very small limb tips.The fit and finish on his bows was great and they are great shooters. Pretty much all I shoot now. If anyone has one they want to sell,send me a pm. Just like any other bow though,you have to see what you like. I've owned and shot some makes of bows that others rave about and wasn't to impressed.
I'll get a picture of all my Timberlines together and post it up when I get a chance.

First time in the woods with her...







also the first time not seeing ANY deer

I have done quite a bit of research about Timberline Bows over the past year or so.  I was attempting to collect one of each of the models Pete offered.  I don't have my notes in front of me, but I think he built 7 or 8 models.  

From what I could find Pete George only built bows for 4-5 years under the Timberline label.  His shop was in California.  And yes he was a Schulz graduate (like David Miller), and highly regarded by John Schulz.  

Apparently, he shut his operation down when told to comply with some environmental regulations regarding his shop.  Apparently he couldn't afford the upgrades, so he just gave up bow building.  Really a shame as he was perfecting his craft.  I have owned three of his bows and they were all beautifully crafted and shot great.  Like I said in a previous post that I only sold them because they were too heavy for me.  Someday I will find one that is light enough for a girl like me to draw    :D  

And Goshawkin that Arnold shot is great, but since I'm such a girly-man I will just step back and let you have those "Timberlines".  

How'd you make out with the Schulz in the field, khardrunner?  Looks great nocked and ready to loose.

Didn't see any deer for the first time this season. It's the last day of the gun season so I'll have to wait until late archery after Christmas.

Khard,
Thank you for those pictures,  I love that dreary, wet, almost mystical quality the portraits portray.  AWSOME