David,
That is kinda my thinking on these kind of subjects but I figured I'd ask because I just don't hear about them much. In all honesty I prefer the  NM straight grip the best over all grips I have tried I just dont like the 9-10 month wait time. So I am eagerly watching classifieds and his I stok list. I have not tried a HHA bow yet. And the Belcher UJ is just a stud of a bow, but I already have one in perfect specs so I'm looking for a new bower to try

Gregg just dropped this one off this morning, it's  going out to a customer. It has some real nice yew under clear glass, African Blackwood and beavertail grip. 70" 55#@ 30"

     

   

   

   

David, there is a difference       ...maybe your final analysis is right ?...  

  :D

I had a chance to shoot Ron LaClairs Shrew Hill a couple of days ago when he was up north visiting.  Even though it's a southpaw bow, it shot extremely nice. Without silencers it had the slightest of hummm and it was so well behaved in the hand that I thought I was shooting a reflex/deflex bow.  I foresee a Shrew Hill in the stable sometime in the near (9 month) future.

Jeff, I am fortunate to have purchased both bows Nate had listed on Trad Gang. Now to wait till they arrive. I am considering putting my John Schults string follow up for sale. It is 66'and70#s at26"s, brown glass, myrtle riser, and bamboo limb core, the specs and material in the new Schults are the same. Looking forward to this years hunting with my new bow! I have own around a thousand Hill longbows and around 25 Schults "Trohy Hunters. The bows perform the same, if they are similar length and draw weight. Just to wet you Howard Hill enthusiast, appitite for thing Hill. I won the "Howard Hill World Championship" in the year 2000, It was billed the final chapter. I used a John Schults, "short String"63"and 67#s at 25". The arrows I had made by Renne Grenier of "Lost Nation" archery, they were white shafts white fletching with red nocks, spined 65 with 145 grain tips. Carried in a leather quiver with the very same wrinkle as Howards quiver. Saturdays events, shooting the 28 moving targets, I had my hair died black, including my mustache and eyebrows. )They bleach blonde in the sun.) I wore a complete white cotton linen British Safari outfit complete with the pith helmet. It doesn't get any better than that. On sunday I wore a white silk shirt and pleated pants and golfing shoes, they way Howard would dress when was attending the big tournaments in California. This was my only time to compete in the Worlds championship in Alabama, so I was focused and my shooting was spot on. The boys I shot with kepted saying your tearing them up, your tearing them up! When we had finished the tounament, I asked what the term tearing them up ment. The response was didn't I know Howard would shoot at a five pound butter box at 40yards and tear it up in to tiny pieces. I knew that but didn't make the connection. I will say that event was without question the most difficult course I have ever shot, I shot very well. I have to say it also is the most oustanding win in my archery career and still means the most to me even 12 years later, it was a wonderful experience, especially having Jerry Hill shake my hand and say good moring "Howard" I don't mind sharing any of my accomplishments and stories of the past. It gives me a moment to go back and relive them. Remember when go to field and shoulder a quiver of arrows and draw your bow for a moment, even if it is just a moment each one of us become "Howard Hill"  

If any would like totalk archery I can be reached at 603-497-2176 or online at jacquesabonin@gmail

Thanks and "God Bless"

Enjoyed your comments Jacque.  

Beautiful bow Ron.  

For the leather back quiver, you have options...

This is what I've found.  They are hard to break in if the leather is too thick.  They just don't conform to your back, and take an immense amount of break in time.  Fine for range shooting.

If you are willing to make small adjustments, you can double up the leather/add a thicker piece around, and on the bottom so the broadheads don't poke through, and then use a thinner leather for the core quiver. This way, it breaks in and bends easier, and still prevents broadheads from pushing through the leather on the lower end of the quiver, and on the bottom.  Make sense?  I go by feel, but think I use about 6 oz for the quiver, with a 5" extra wrap of 8 oz, and 2 layers on the bottom of 8 oz.  Again I can't remember exactly but this is how I keep them tough and pliable.  Also, after applying dye and before the finish, apply neats foot oil to soften the leather, and you can also work the leather to soften it up prior to stitching.

Ron-

I think that is the best looking ShrewHill I've seen. They keep getting better and better.

Great story Jaque,
Sounds like you went to AL to make some history that weekend. Thanks for sharing it with us.
CTT

Jacque-

Do you have pics? I would like to see them.

QuoteOriginally posted by Ron LaClair:
Gregg just dropped this one off this morning, it's  going out to a customer. It has some real nice yew under clear glass, African Blackwood and beavertail grip. 70" 55#@ 30"

     

     

   

   

 

I hope it shoots as good as it looks. I'm sure it will. I anticipate needing another freezer.

QuoteOriginally posted by Overspined:
For the leather back quiver, you have options...

This is what I've found.  They are hard to break in if the leather is too thick.  They just don't conform to your back, and take an immense amount of break in time.  Fine for range shooting.

If you are willing to make small adjustments, you can double up the leather/add a thicker piece around, and on the bottom so the broadheads don't poke through, and then use a thinner leather for the core quiver. This way, it breaks in and bends
easier, and still prevents broadheads from pushing through the leather on the lower end of the quiver, and on the bottom.
 Make sense?  I go by feel, but think I use about 6 oz for the
quiver, with a 5" extra wrap of 8 oz, and 2 layers on the
bottom of 8 oz.  Again I can't remember exactly but this is
how I keep them tough and pliable.  Also, after applying dye
and before the finish, apply neats foot oil to soften the
leather, and you can also work the leather to soften it up prior
to stitching.

Thanks for the help  

QuoteI hope it shoots as good as it looks. I'm sure it will. I anticipate needing another freezer.  

Do you want me to hang onto it for a few days and field test it? I can give you a full evaluation by Monday or Tuesday of next week ...   ....    

Beautiful bow Ron.

Ron, you do have a mean streak, don't you!
Killdeer  

Ron should pass that one around for all of us to try!  That way it is sure to be broke in before it arrives, a little quality control!

Thats a mighty Purty bow!!

QuoteOriginally posted by Ron LaClair:
 

QuoteI hope it shoots as good as it looks. I'm sure it will. I anticipate needing another freezer.  

Do you want me to hang onto it for a few days and field test it? I can give you a full evaluation by Monday or Tuesday of next week ...      ....        [/b]

Sure, as long as you can mail it on Monday. If I could have it in my hands by the next weekend, that'd be great. I'd like to see how you think it compares to your other bows.

I'm thinking the African Blackwood will give it a lot of heft and make for a very stable shooting bow.

Ron-
BEAUTIFUL bow...... wow!! and my specs 70" 55@30......  ha, ha, ha....

I am shooting a Jerry Hill, so I am used (and like it) to the narrow/racetrack/hatchet/wedge style of grip. Would you consider to ship a ShrewHill over the big pond? Waiting time?
Greetings from Hamburg, Germany
Vincent      

Darin, I do have pictures, however they were taken back in 2000. I can try to take pictures with my digital camera, not sure of the quality. On top of that I would have to send pictures to someone who could post them for me, as I haven't learned to post them on this thread. It may take me some time, as I have interviews later today. Very important to become employed, so I can continue my archery adventures. Talk later,Jacques