HH bug got me ... Part One!

Mudd · January 17, 2012, 05:35:00 AM

Pavan, you lost me brother...sorry.

The word picture just didn't develop for me.

Would you please "show-me", especially with woodies.

Thank you!

God bless, Mudd

dragonheart · January 17, 2012, 07:46:00 AM

When she arrives I will post the photos.

mikebiz · January 17, 2012, 09:15:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by Eric Sprick:

QuoteOriginally posted by Bud B.:
I can't get judos to draw easily either. :(
Yep, Judos are a problem. I've gone to Ace Hex blunts when using my back quiver now. Pull easy and are a good stumpin' head.

Eric [/b]

I have two questions.

1) Eric - have you used those hex blunts on any small game? I'm gonna try them. Thanks.

2) Pavan - I read earlier that you shoot a Pete George longbow. What model and what are the specs and details of that bow if you don't mind. Pete built a beautiful looking and shooting bow. Thanks.

Bud B. · January 17, 2012, 12:43:00 PM

I started using these sold by Kustom King and found they hit mercilessly and draw easily from a back quiver:

dragonheart · January 17, 2012, 01:11:00 PM

They look BRUTAL! :D

Nate Steen . · January 17, 2012, 01:16:00 PM

Judos and backquivers don't mix well. I only use judos around my yard. Usually I use .38 shell casings, hex heads, or rubber blunts if around rocky terrain. Those hex heads tear a nasty hole in rabbits or grouse and if I mmmm...mm...miss a grouse and hit the tree they don't bury in the wood.

January 17, 2012, 01:43:00 PM

Okay Mudd, I like to stump shoot on my way out where I hunt, about a mile from the road. If I am hunting with aluminum or Grizzlysticks I used a screw in judo with the end weighted to match my broadheads. I put that arrow in with my blunts and point in my pocket. I punch a bottom set of holes to match the top divider strand on my back quivers so my blunts and broadheads stay separated in the bottom of the quiver. With cedar arrows since I cannot put the point in my pocket, I need to take off the quiver and I push on narrow ends and force the quiver to get rounder, then there is enough room to drop, or more correctly feed the judo down into the quiver and bypass the snagging of the stitching on the high end of the quiver.
I have no trouble pulling it out of the narrower compartment with the blunts. I started going to the top and bottom separators, because I used to put my judos in with my broadheads. Once after a a long deer sign/hunt/judo shooting hike, I got back to the car and saw that about half of my hunterheads were missing. I retraced my entire two mile morning hike to find my dropped arrows back. The judos would catch in the broadheads and I was dropping them behind me. The last one that I snagged pulling out a judo was when I was almost back to my car, that is the one I heard hit the ground. I amaze myself how unaware I can be at times.
Mike, my Pete George is left hand 68" dark brown glass yew 64@28" myrtle riser. My son has a clear glass Pete George yew that is about the same poundage, with which he has shot dozens of deer. When at full draw mine is a little bit more whip ended than his, I think that is why it has better feel and performance at my shorter 26 plus draw than his. I shot three squirrels in three shots with it one day this year, all over twenty yards away. The bow just works for me somehow.

Eric Sprick · January 17, 2012, 04:55:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by mikebiz:

QuoteOriginally posted by Eric Sprick:

QuoteOriginally posted by Bud B.:
I can't get judos to draw easily either. :(
Yep, Judos are a problem. I've gone to Ace Hex blunts when using my back quiver now. Pull easy and are a good stumpin' head.

Eric [/b]
I have two questions.

1) Eric - have you used those hex blunts on any small game? I'm gonna try them. Thanks.

2) Pavan - I read earlier that you shoot a Pete George longbow. What model and what are the specs and details of that bow if you don't mind. Pete built a beautiful looking and shooting bow. Thanks. [/b]

Have not shot any small game with them yet, I mostly stump shoot with them but I think they would be deadly.

Good luck, Eric

Steve Clandinin · January 17, 2012, 09:11:00 PM

Hey Eric's right I've been using Hex heads for around 4 years now ,deadly on birds and Gophers,basically I've replaced all my Judos with them.They fit alot nicer in Backquivers and also bow quivers,haven't lost and arrow yet with them.

January 18, 2012, 10:51:00 AM

Finally this thread is off the front page. I just ordered some hex heads. OOps

mikebiz · January 18, 2012, 11:04:00 AM

I'm ordering some Hex heads today myself.

January 18, 2012, 11:52:00 AM

It was very Mudd of me to impulse buy like that, just kidding. But I was grounded most of the deer season from this ruptured disc and cracked ribs. We had a nice warm second season, but a muzzleloader shot and lost a buck that was heading my way from across a bean field, my only chance to get into any deer during the second season. I really don't like those guys. Thinking that I may take out my frustration on a bunny or two with the hexheads.

dragonheart · January 18, 2012, 01:46:00 PM

I weighed my new Big Five and it is right on 60# @ 26" my draw. It is marked 62#. The bow has a straight profile, 66". It seems to like about 5 3/4-5 7/8 BH. It feels mucho better after changing out the leather on the grip and adding the wedge leather on the side.

khardrunner · January 18, 2012, 01:51:00 PM

Wedge leather? What's that?

dragonheart · January 18, 2012, 01:58:00 PM

On the side of the grip, I put a piece of leather in a wedge shape, kinda a small extension of the shelf. You can see it on Nate Steen's bows and American Longbows (Schulz), and older Hill's and Tim meigs bows. Gives an indicator reference for your hand position and I get better arrow flight with it on the bow.

typical2 · January 18, 2012, 02:07:00 PM

dragonheart,

Can you post a pic of that wedge of leather. I'm looking to get a bit more consistent with grip location and want to check that out.

typical2 · January 18, 2012, 02:09:00 PM

Is that where the leather from the rest/strikeplate tucks under the handle leather?

dragonheart · January 18, 2012, 02:12:00 PM

Picture is on Pg. 464 of this thread. You can see the top of the wedge leather just sticking above the shelf. I like the arrow to rest on the top of the wedge and against the side of the bow. Less contact. The leather is all glued with Barge cement. I thin a thicker piece of leather on a belt sander than glue it just so the right amount is sticking up. On my daughter's Hill it actually is up enough to assist in the arrow staying on the shelf.

dragonheart · January 18, 2012, 02:14:00 PM

The last photo shows it the best. it is not a very big piece of leather, but to me it makes a big differnce in the way my arrows fly. I won't shoot without that on my bow anymore.

dragonheart · January 18, 2012, 02:19:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by typical2:
Is that where the leather from the rest/strikeplate tucks under the handle leather?

My rest, strike plate is just cut to fit and the edge is right against the grip leather. I cut out just enough for the "wedge" to fit against the strikeplate/rest leather.