I just purchased a arrow saw and fletching jig and will be making my own carbon arrows. I purchased some CX Heritage 150 shafts. I have the following very basic newbie questions before I start:

1.)  The nocks on my new shafts appear to be glued in.  Is this the case?  Can they me removed and if so how does one do this?

2.)  I am still working to determine the best shaft length for my bow.  I plan to bare shaft tune with one of my arrows an use it as a test shaft.  Obviously if the nock is glued in at one end of the arrow and I have to put an insert in on the other end to add a point to bare shaft tune I will have to remove either the nock 0or the insert as I work to cut the shaft successively to the proper length.  What can I use for insert cement so that I can remove the insert prior to making it permanent as I tune the shaft?  The only insert cement I currently have is the permanent Easton cement and also Insert Iron Cement.  I know carbon shafts to not like being heated.  Maybe the insert can just be compression fit without glue for tuning?

I know these are very basic questions and I appreciate your assistance!  

Dave

Dave,

First, nocks for most carbon shafts now days are only pressed in and not glued in.  Needle nosed pliars, leatherman, etc. will pull them out though sometimes a slight twisting will help.

I always tune by cutting off the nock end a bit at a time.  I start by putting as much insert and point weight I think will be appropriate and bare shaft after that.  If you really want to remove the insert without glueing it in I believe some guys have used plastic wrap or even teflon pipe tape.

Yeah the nocks are pressed in,and as said above they are easy to pull out with pliers. I use hot melt glue on the inserts. As soon as I put the insert in I put the insert end in cool water,and i've never had a problem. To get them out I take a big field point and heat it. When the tip just starts to get hot I put it in the vice and pull the shaft off the insert.

I also use hot melt on CX HE shafts, works fine.

Bohning makes a low temp hot melt called Ferrule Tite Cool Flex.  I use it on all my carbons when bare shaft tuning.  I've even used it as a permanent glue, although I prefer Insert Iron.

i cut from the nock end as well, i try to mimic the weight of feathers and wraps by using some electrical tape. i can peel it off easy and it helps me see how the extra weight in the back end effects it before i fletch. Weight in the back of the arrow causes the sine to stiffen.

Big Jim's glue stick works very good, easy to glue and easy to heat and remove. Go on his site and watch his video.

Thank you to everyone for your helpful replies!  I really appreciate the assistance.

Dave

I would recommend the Big Jim hot melt glue as well.I have used it on CE Heritage arrows for years..

You might want to try brass inserts as well.I use both 50 and 100 grain.I have also used aluminum.With the hot melt you can play with the various companents.I mostly use the 50 grain brass.I shoot both 150s and 250s.

I can get get Heritsge 150s or 250s to work by adjusting length and point weight,If I want a heavy arrow I shoot the 250s.I like both a lot.

I have field points from 100 grain up to 250 to play around with as well.

Don't know if it has been mentioned but be sure to wear a mask, you DO NOT want carbon dust in your lungs.

Thanks for the info!  I will put it to use.  Appreciate thye safety tip on carbon dust as well.  Dave