I am just getting back to Traditional Archery after 30 years with compounds.  I shot recurves prior to compounds but was a young guy and had to shoot what I could get cheap or free.  In 2011 I had Jay St. Charles build me a 2nd Generation Thunderbird 45# @ 29".  I had shoulder surgery shortly before it arrived so I am just now getting it tuned up for shooting.  I am a tall guy and I am shooting 2016 Easton Legacy's 50-55# cut to 31.5".  Today I tried shooting this arrow and bow combination with various field tip weights - everything from 100 gr to 175 gr.  The bow shot best with 145 gr tips.  I weighed my arrows and they were 447 gr without tips.  With tips (145 gr) total weight of arrow and tip is 592 gr.  For you guys that shot traditional for many years and are familiar with "typical" arrow weight ranges does this seem about right or what you would expect?  I don't have a local traditional shop but inquired with many longtime bow builders and online shops on shafting and ended up with 2016.  I cut them to length for draw length and then just experimented with a 3 Rivers Field Point Test Kit.  Not very scientific but the only way I knew how to do it. Thoughts?  I also plan to order a 45# New Bear 59 Kodiak and hopefully can shoot the same arrows.  I am going to start making my own cedar arrows as well.  Thanks for the help!  Dave

BayfieldHunter, Dave

You should be good to go for now.  Unlike C bows, tuning is SO LARGELY influenced by YOU that until you get comfortable shooting again, much of the "tuning" will have to wait for you to really get good results.  For now, what you describe will get you something to shoot and as your execution improves (is regained) your "tuning" requirements will probably change.

I suspect, that later you will find that 1916 shafts will be a better match BUT don't sweat it for now -- GO SHOOT!!

I'd also suggest that you NOT cut your arrows initially, that (shaft length) is a BIG tuning tool.

Arne

Arne,  I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question.  It helps me know that I am at least on the right track.  I didn't want to practice for a longtime and find that I had a large glaring oversight and have to start over again.  You also answered another question I had and that was about my arrow length.  As I draw my bow I can see that my arrows are probably physically 1.5" too long but I figured I can always take something off but it is hard to add back on.  Thank You Again,  Dave

I think you have your answer.  Focus on form and shot execution and when you get consitent, look into some new arrows.

What Arne said^^^^^^^

Bisch