I finally put together a Morrison Mini 14 and a set of Long Centaur limbs for an ILF set up.  So far I am very pleased with the way it shoots and how it feels.  I have a question on set up.  Right now the tiller is the same top and bottom.  What is Positive tiller and how do adjustments effect the bows performance?  
Thanks in advance for any input.
ALDO

Positive tiller would give a higher measurement to the top limb.

Usually shooting split 1/8" positive, three under even tiller. This lets you keep your nock height lower.

Positive tiller is a stronger bottom limb . 1/8"-1/4 " shorter measurement from string to bottom corner of raiser . Measuring to the same spot  on top and bottom . Some use the tip of the fade outs . One can not count on the same turns of the limb bolts to give you the even tiller . Some limbs come with built in tiller and some come even . Being able to adjust tiller can help in getting good arrow flight . Good luck .

May life's simplest things bring you the greatest pleasures !!!!

I shoot 3U and went to an ILF purely to be able to dial in 1/8" negative tiller.  Don't be afraid to experiment if typical settings don't give the desired results, your mileage may vary.

Set the tiller at "0" and don't worry about it.

Regards,
Grouse

hi guys im new here and i dont know if this thread is to old or not, but ive only been shooting for about a year and just recently got an ilf bow and im also interested in this topic, i havent be able to find any info on a default set up? whats a 0 tiller set up? whats a good starting point? i understand what tiller is and how it works but this is my first ilf bow, thanks.

0 tiller= both upper and lower limb tiller are equal distance from string to riser/limb pocket

That's correct, do a search or Google it for a pic or vid of exactly how to measure it, but basically the string is the same distance from the face of the limb, measured from the shooter's side of the bow, where it meets the riser.  Just set a bow square against the limb at the limb/riser juncture and measure the distance to the string.  Zero tiller will have the same measurement for top and bottom limbs and is where most people start for three under, although I've found it works fine for split on ILF type bows, too.  You would normally go a bit positive on the tiller (slightly larger distance from limb to string for top limb) for split finger, and some people go negative for three under, although most people I've talked to use zero for three under.  The right tiller for your shooting style makes the bow quieter, smoother, potentially more accurate, and allows the least radical nock point setting, in terms of height.

thanks a tone guys that really helps a lot with this new bow, i shoot three under and was told that i should have the tiller set for a stiffer bottom limb but after doing that my bow seamed to rattle a little more and arrow flight was less consistent, on top of already having a issues with not being able to get my brace height high enough with the factory skinny fast flight string, so im waiting for my new string now. so as long as my tiller is 0 does it matter how far in or out the they are? or does that only decrease or increase weight?

Yes, weight.  Set tiller to zero, then turn each limb bolt in or out as you desire to tune the weight.  Turn each bolt exactly the same amount once tiller is set.  I used a sharpie to put a mark on my limb bolts to check this.  Don't know why you can't move the brace with that string, but I'd check with Bob about brace, I think he normally recommends a little lower than typical on his bows.  It does matter to some degree how far in or out you move the bolts; there will be a maximum and minimum recommended by bowyer, in or out from the middle setting, and with ILF limbs this has a lot to do with getting the most out of the limbs at your draw length and/or not overstressing the limb with longer draws.

ok thank you guys for all the help im glad i joined here lol. trad archery has recently become such a passion but being new i have so many questions.

ILF rigs are a good way to go; adjustable to your shooting style (tiller) with some weight adjustability as well and pretty much an unlimited variety of limb options for any riser.  Don't overlook some of the less expensive target limbs made for Oly style bows as an option, as they can be great values, too.  ILF rigs really do give you more bang for your money.

so far ive really liked it, its a PSE GHOST, 60 inch 40# its only been on the market for a couple years and from what i see it was discontinued. probably because pse isnt exactly the go to for trad bows but with my thunderhorn quiver and GT arrows im into the rig for less than 400 bucks and it really does shoot nice. PS i put the tiller back at 0 and sure enough it started shooting real nice despite a low brace height thats a tad loud.