I have a current production 40# Bear Archery Grizzly and I've been shooting split finger for around a 6 weeks (I'm new to archery) and on saturday I shot split finger at a 3D shoot all morning.  Afterwards, I stopped at an indoor range (my shooting itch not yet satisfied) and after shooting for a few minutes, I switched to 3 Under on a whim.

My group (if you can call them that) size immediately cut in half and I was even able to hit in the gold at 20 yds several times.

I am going to try it out more when I get a chance, but my question is this:

On a production bow, like these new grizzlys, is the tiller usual set up for split finger?  Other than a little more noise and vibration, is there anything else to watch out for shooting 3u on a split tillered bow?

I will note that when I switched, everything felt better about my release, smoother, less dramatic.  I can't say if there was a noise difference as I don't hear much when I am very focused on my spot and my release

Don't worry about the tiller you will have to move your nock point a little higher and may be play with your brace hight.

Bows are tillered for split finger shooting, to answer your question. The noise and vibration is because the 2 limbs are no longer working as a match pair, as you are pulling on the bottom limb more. Moving the knock point is deception, not solving the issue.
Some reasons why you like it:
You might be top-finger-heavy, when you pull a string back, top finger is just a rider with light pressure, middle finger takes the load, bottom finger slightly more than top.
Instinctive shooting is about triangulation. 1, target, 2, your eye, 3, the shaft.
The further the shaft is from your eye, the harder for your brain to calculate the shot, thus 3U moves the shaft closer to your eye.
Instead, try to anchor on your cheek bone. shaft is now right by your eye, split finger, tight to your face.
The bow will perform as designed and you will see good results

I have tried a higher anchor with split finger but due to what I imagine is a poor release, I either poke myself in the eye with a good shot or flinch and miss hahaha

QuoteOriginally posted by Mike89:
I have tried a higher anchor with split finger but due to what I imagine is a poor release, I either poke myself in the eye with a good shot or flinch and miss hahaha

Right there with you on that one Mike!

QuoteOriginally posted by CA BOWHUNTER:
Don't worry about the tiller you will have to move your nock point a little higher and may be play with your brace hight.

What he said. I switched from split to three under because I shot much better three under. It has helped me a lot especially after watching masters of the barebow vol 1 and 3 where Rod Jenkins shows how he gaps using 3 under.

Yep three under can be a better loose for sure.  I've been using it since they allowed it in competition here in TX.  To tune your bow and get your limbs working together move you nock point up to 3/4" above and try it there.  Fine tune from that point.

Have fun and enjoy hitting more targets.

Mike

In my experience, it really depends on the bow. As a 3 under shooter, most of the bows I've owned weren't tillered for 3 under. Some of them were fine with a higher nock, and others, though quiet when shot split, could not be quieted down when shot 3 under no matter what I tried.
I'm now shooting 66-68" longbows, and they don't seem to be nearly as critical, considering they're both tillered for split.

A higher nock point will get it done.  On factory bows not tillered for 3 under (almost all) I find I get excellent results shooting 3 under with an elevated rest, like a Bear Weather Rest for example.

I don't know if you consider them production bows, but an ILF rig can be adjusted to shoot even tiller for three under.

Raise your nock point and don't worry about it. The important thing is your accuracy improved and the shot felt better. I have about 15 production bows all tillered for split, and a handful of second-hand customs of unknown tiller - probably split also, and I shoot them all three-under just fine. Tune accordingly, paper tune if you need to to establish nock height and have fun. By the way, the weight distribution on the drawing fingers should be about 50% middle finger, 40% index, and only 10% ring finger. Too much weight on the third finger WILL make three-under louder with more vibration.

I've never heard or thought about the amount of pulling the individual fingers should be doing, but it makes sense in theory. I'm gonna have to play with that one tomorrow.

Something to try is reversing your limbs on a 3pcs. if you bow will allow this retune to this setup. This will not work for everyone but will for many...Works for me

Bob

Been shooting three under for several years. I have owned a boxcar full of bows and had no issues with any of them. Even my 55 Kodiak:)5/8 is the magic number for me.

Is the basic idea behind raising the nock point that your fingers are in the same position on the string that they would be if you were shooting split with the nock in the original spot?

That would make sense to me because that allows the limbs to flex in the proportions they were designed to

thats the idea.

Talking to Jerry Brumm at Great Northern when I ordered my Ghost. He's tillering it even for 3 under. He told me the only difference it makes is noise level.Performance wise its a moot point.Have you ever seen how accurate a good string walker is?