I sleeve all my axis shafts. Here's a quick video for those interested...

http://youtu.be/U92sm10gDiQ

You can also use the Ferr-L-Tite blue stick glue.  Heat the stick and wipe a bit of it around the carbon shaft.  Heat the aluminum arrow sleeve and slide it down over the carbon shaft allowing the heat from the aluminum to melt the glue.  Wipe off excess before ti hardens completely.
I found that a XX75 2113 fits nicely over a GoldTip Expedition Hunter shaft.

QuoteOriginally posted by S2 Bowstrings:
I sleeve all my axis shafts. Here's a quick video for those interested...

  http://youtu.be/U92sm10gDiQ  

Very well done as usual Ryan.    

I don't foot the nock end myself but always the front. Here's a 2-1/2 minute video by our TG brother Daniel Yononindo showing just how effective external footings can be:

  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaiCiL2Jg04  


Ron

Where you guys buying this Loctite 380 Black Max?

Thanx

I've also been shooting over-footed (external) carbons (Gold Tip) with Aluminum sleeves for a few years.

On a glancing blow, I did manage to bend a solid 100 gr. brass insert, which had to be heated to release the glue holding it in, and when the over-footing of aluminum was removed, there was a SMALL crack in the shaft.

Using brown hot melt, which I believe is relatively flexible, everything stayed in tact inside the shaft and aside from a bent 100 gr. brass insert, it would have appeared 100% useable.

I'm a fan and believer!  Great video, Ron!

Here are some pictures of different ones.I find it just as beneficial to also install a 1/4" piece on the nock end.




Here are some dimensions for aluminum shafts.Measure or find the O.D. of your carbon shaft and then choose the appropriate aluminum,based on it's I.D.The aluminum,ideally would have an I.D.,app. .007 larger than the carbon I.D.This makes it easier to get on but without excess slop.

Here is an example of the benefits of aluminum footing carbon arrows.I made direct hits on rocks with these two arrows.The arrows were 700 gr,shot from a 54# bow,Victory V Force,HV 300's.Of a few carbons I have experience with,the Victory HV's are the least tough.

The 200 gr Grizzly broadhead was ruined and the Judo badly bent but both arrows survived beautifully.The footings saved the day,for sure.

JimB - Looks like you double footed those in the 3rd photo?

Jim,

Any change to spine or need for adjusting point weight etc after adding the front footing?  Thanks!

Zbone,those Tuffheads have a 23/64" so I added the 2nd footing to help fill the gap.

Butchie,my footings are normally 1" long so they don't go past the end of the brass insert,so there is no stiffening affect but they do add 9-13 grains to the front end,so that can affect tune slightly.

I always put a 1/4" footing on the nock end and that seems to come close to balancing out any affect that the front footing may have on tune.Weight on the rear of the shaft usually has more affect than the same amount up front.

To be honest,these days I foot them before tuning anyway but in the past,I saw no difference when I footed front and back.I think that rear footing is worth doing and probably has saved some arrows when nocks were shot off.

I cut my footings with a small tubing cutter and chuck them in a drill press,using a mill file to bevel the rear of the footing.This helps a lot when pulling arrows out of a bag target.I don't do any beveling to the rear footing.I do lightly deburr the inside ends of the footings with a countersink bit,just held in my hand.

You guys using a brass shell case deburrer (can't remember the name they call it) to taper smooth the footings?

Thanx

That's what I'm going to do next, is foot some carbon shafts, and go out and set up some concrete targets. You got to be joking!

Interesting thing I noticed in the video Ron posted is that of the 4 arrows shot the 2 without footings barely moved the cement block. the 2 arrows with the footing both knocked the cement block over. Seems to me that on a heavy bone hit the energy retention of the footed shaft hits a lot harder than the the energy lost as the insert gets crushed into the shaft on the non footed arrow.
Pretty impressive stuff if you ask me.
Great post and very informative.

Ok, point well taken. Then how many people have had inserts crushed in to the shaft on bone impacts?

I cheat on champfering the edges. I chuck the piece lightly in my cordless drill and run it against my 2x72" belt grinder. Super easy! I would think a disk sander would work just as well, or chuck it in a drill press and hold a piece of 220 grit paper on a hard block against it.

Mr. Breeding showed me how to use a sander to make a slow, long bevel on the rear side of the footing.  The "bump" I experienced drawing back over the more abrupt, made by my reloading chamfer tool was way too abrupt...the "bump" was distracting but with the long, slow taper, I don't notice it as I draw!

Zibon I use the saffing tool like you thought both inside and outs.

A carbon arrows weakest point is right behind the insert where on a hard impact such with a tree or bone the insert will mushroom up into the shaft. An aluminum footing over the point end of the shaft and insert completely takes care of this problem by reinforcing this area with a sort of wall. Think of it as reinforced concrete so to speak.

Why ?