Paper only. Then I double check with broadheads at distance.

Same for me as Bowwild and Bisch.

A good tear thru paper is a testament to what the arrow is doing.

A big, unvented two blade shot into a sand bank will VEER and steer to places unwanted if it not perfect.

QuoteOriginally posted by JamesKerr:
I just bareshaft at 15-25 yards. I don't pay any attention to how my bareshafts fly but rather where they group in relation to a group of fletched arrows. After that I check my arrow flight with broadheads. Many times though I can just broadhead tune with my shafts as simmons tree sharks tend to show any small  tuning problem you might have. Once I get my broadhead arrow flying perfectly straight I then shoot a group of field tips and broadheads and if they both fly perfect and group together I am good to go. If they don't then it usually just takes one or two twist of the string to increase or decrease brace height.

x2

Often forego bareshaft tuning and go with BH tuning.

No matter if one bareshafts or paper tunes an arrow. The set-up is not golden until the broadhead tipped arrow's mark is identical to the same configuration fletched arrow with field point. Note: typically tune from 5 to 40 yards.

I make my own arrows and bareshaft tune them to the bow I'm using -- I do not paper tune. I tune the arrow based on how it hits the target.

I do both.

I start by bare shaft tuning in flight. Fling the arrow and watch how it reacts in flight. make adjustments until it looks like all left and right kicks are gone then work on up and down.

when everything looks good ill take it to paper, usually it will need the smallest tweek at this point to get a bullet hole.  

After that I throw on my broad heads and make sure they are flying true and im set  

I also do both.

Often I will shoot through the paper just to make sure I'm not way way off, then I go outside and bareshaft at 10, 15, 20, 25 yards etc until satisfied.

Thenj I check tune with broadheads. bareshaft, field point, and broadhead should shoot the same spot to 30yds, but most importantly field points and broadheads .... bareshaft is just a tool to make that happen.

I do find though that no matter how much tuning, once I get out past 30yds, my broadheads tend to hit a couple inches lower. I think its because they are longer than my field points, and that throws off my point of aim slightly for gap shooting.

What are you all using as a movable nock point when doing your tuning process.

I paper tune from about 6 feet, but never bareshaft.  Tried bareshafting a few times and never liked it.  PT does everything I need and much easier.  Before hunting I shoot broadheads and FP to match.

I am also a fan of paper tuning. Gives me a positive visual of what's happening.