Loving my new bow but could use some ideas.....

I can get a bare shaft to fly true, but when I shoot a fletched arrow I inevitably get some serious wear on the outer side of my rest. It appears to me that the fletching is driving down into the shelf causing this.

Since my bare shafts are flying well, i think this is probably a matter of adjusting brace and nock heights to account for fletching.

The combo in question is
Holm Made Osprey 60" 52@ my 28.5"
Calf hair rest and strike plate
Three under shooting with glove
Nock point is 9/16"
Brace is 7" using an 8 strand SBD with wool silencers
Arrow is a 30.5" Easton Excel .400 with standard insert and 200 gr field tip. Three 5" left helical feathers. Total arrow weight is 510 grains

I had to shoot 300 up front with my 400 spine arrows for my 50+ lb bows with a 28" draw.
Switched to 500 spine and shoot regular inserts with 200 gr points with 31" arrows.
When I bare shaft I want a "weak" arrow that groups just right of my regular shafts knowing that fletched shafts are stiffer.
What might be happening is that your bare shafts are just skimming the shelf but the stiffer fletched ones are hitting harder with more stuff to make a mark.
First thing I'd try is heavier points or inserts, add something (I use white deodorant) to your shelf/riser and check for contact.

Good luck, and can't believe you're switching from your toelkes!

You might try aligning or orienting your nock differently first. Turn your indicating feather up just slightly and see if that helps.

If they are bear shafting well any change in the arrow will cause a need to retune.

QuoteOriginally posted by NBK:
I had to shoot 300 up front with my 400 spine arrows for my 50+ lb bows with a 28" draw.
Switched to 500 spine and shoot regular inserts with 200 gr points with 31" arrows.
When I bare shaft I want a "weak" arrow that groups just right of my regular shafts knowing that fletched shafts are stiffer.
What might be happening is that your bare shafts are just skimming the shelf but the stiffer fletched ones are hitting harder with more stuff to make a mark.
First thing I'd try is heavier points or inserts, add something (I use white deodorant) to your shelf/riser and check for contact.

Good luck, and can't believe you're switching from your toelkes!

Just straying for a while haha

QuoteOriginally posted by FerretWYO:
You might try aligning or orienting your nock differently first. Turn your indicating feather up just slightly and see if that helps.

If they are bear shafting well any change in the arrow will cause a need to retune.

Good point. I've been tinkering with the fletch orientation since yesterday.  

So far raisin the brace a 1/4" and the nock a 1/4" have both been helpful. I added a second nock also.

Gona give my back a break and try some more shooting tonight

Added another 50 gr up front and that has been helpful as well.  The bare shafts are showing slightly weak but shooting very well with fletching.

TxAg

I'm glad you posted. I am having the same issue with my rest. I was bare shafting well also. I know the feathers stiffen it up a bit.I was wondering what it could be I will try some of the advice given so far. I'm going to add some weight up front 1st. Then increase brace height 2nd if needed. Thanks. Dave

As you said you have bareshaft arrows flying well.  Keep in mind that when you fletch the bareshaft, you are adding weight to the back of the arrow and, in my experience, you need to add a similiar or slightly higher amount to the front to preserve your tune.  If you add a wrap and fleching you might be adding over 25 grains to the back of the arrow and need to add the same to the front.  If you don't the arrow will be slightly stiff and cause the problem you are experiencing.

I was going to suggest you add the second nock point but see you already took care of that.  

My other suggestion would have been to start your tuning with a very high nock point, one high enough that you know you will only have to go down.  You might have been in a situation where your nock point was actually too low, resulting in just enough contact to correct your bare shaft and enough contact to give you wear on you rest from fletched arrows.  

Ideally bare shafts should group right on top of fletched, but a little low and nock high in the target may offer a bit of forgiveness and improved rest clearance.  I've come to like my bare shafts trending just slightly lower than my fletched shafts.  It's not really noticeable at 20 yards but can be seen at 30.

That's something else...when in doubt with bare shafts, move back.

Close range Paper,tuning will tell you what your arrow is doing when it leaves the bow.ifs a spine issue or if you arrow is bouncing off you shelf.
You could try cock,feather in. When I was playing around with paper tuning I would use a bare shaft with my wrap on and the point I was planning on using . Trim the shaft til I got a perfect bullet hole. Then after I put the feathers on and shot my paper tune was showing getting a slight  high tear. I turned my arrow so cock feather was in and viola my bullet was back.  And the bare shaft flys perfect with my fletched arrows.
Some people don't put much salt into paper tuning but in my opinion it will tell you things your arrow is doing at different yardages that you naked eye just can't see in flight.
Also when I was shooting 3 under I was getting a lot of feather and outer rest ware. And in my experimenting I found that a stiffer  arrow is required for shooting 3 under then split.
You could try raising your nock point to 5/8. See of that helps