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Tuning New arrows

Started by DanielB89, February 05, 2014, 12:08:00 PM

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DanielB89

I was wondering what everyone does when they begin to tune new arrows.  I bought a dzn 5575 trad blems from BigJim.  I am shooting a BW MAIII that is 53@28, and i draw back to 29".  

I have fletched 6 of them, I was wondering what you guys do as your tuning method of choice.  

I have always shot the 5575's so I know that they will be a little on the weak spine side, but I was thinking about trying to build out my shelf to help with that.  

Thank you for all your help.  I like about a 500 grain arrow at the end of the day(don't make this post about gpp).  The blems are 9.3 gpi, I have a wrap installed and 3 fletchings.  

I know some people bare shaft paper tune, some say NEVER DO THIS, so tune the bare shafts and the flethed arrows until they get them shooting the same, etc.  This is just me wanting to know what you usually do.

And if you have any tips or techniques that you think i should try to help with the spine being slightly weak.  I wish goldtip made a .340 arrow so I could keep all my gt components i have acquired over the year.
Any opinions are greatly appreciated.
"Blessed is the man who trusts in the LORD And whose trust is the LORD. Jeremiah 17:7

"There is a way which seems right to a man,
But its end is the way of death."  Proverbs 14:12

McDave

Whenever I try new combinations of bows or arrows, I always bare shaft tune. I use the method taught by Ken Beck of Black Widow, where you observe the nock position as you shoot the bare shaft, and where the arrow impacts the target.

If I had a GT arrow and point combination I liked but it was a little weak, I would add a GT nock adapter with either a 20 grain or 50 grain tail weight.  If I needed more tail weight than that, I would change to a stiffer shaft.  Of course, you could accomplish the same thing by reducing point weight or trimming the shaft, but I assume you already have those where you want them.
TGMM Family of the Bow

Technology....the knack of arranging the world so that we don't have to experience it.

BigJim

Nock adaptors can be hard to come by...although we do cary them. I typically talk people out of purchasing them because tail weight on arrows can cause some funny things to occur.

Whenever possible, it is best to add or subtract weight up front for micro tuning and cut shafts or leave longer for macro tuning.

thanks, bigjim
http://www.bigjimsbowcompany.com/      
I just try to live my life in a way that would have made my father proud.

RedStag5728

I bare-shaft tune, what I do is check stu miller's calculator to get it CLOSE and then fine tune it with bare-shafting. Then I fletch and good to go!
Randy
CTA RedStag LB 64" ntn 57# @ 28"
Hickory SB (#2) 64" ntn 43# @ 28"
Hickory East Woodland SB 65# @ 27"
Darkside Laminated LB 50# @ 28"
Darkside Laminated LB 37# @ 28"

old_goat2

From experience I can usually guess close to what I need for spine. I have to shoot full length arrows because of a crazy long draw length 31"+ if I get stretched out good. So I start with a prospective arrow and shoot bareshaft with different tip/insert weight combos till I get either a slightly weak or straight arrow in the target. I do this fairly close to the target, 10 or 12ft and do it at a couple of distances. Then I fletch an arrow. I  recently had to build out a strike plate to be able to shoot an arrow that I had a bunch of, got lucky and hit it on the first try. Once I see the bareshaft results I want, I fletch an arrow and shoot a broadhead, if that hits good, I fletch a few more and go shoot them at the 3d range and try to watch the flight to see if I have good flight before I fletch any more.
David Achatz
CPO USN Ret.
Various bows, but if you see me shooting, it's probably a Toelke in my hand!

Ryan Sanpei

Since you asked      ;)   .  Here's what I prefer to do, but it's definitely not for everyone.  It's more about initial bow set up but I do show how I prefer to tune.  

  http://youtu.be/ETxbL2yA3_o  

GT does makes .340s but not in the Trad shafts.

Aloha!
Ryan

onewhohasfun

I doubt that they will be too weak.  I shoot full length 55/75's out of 2 bows, #56 @ 29" and  #53 @ 29'' with 375gr. up front, total weight around 680gr. With a tip weight around 200gr. you should be fine.
Tom

DanielB89

QuoteOriginally posted by onewhohasfun:
I doubt that they will be too weak.  I shoot full length 55/75's out of 2 bows, #56 @ 29" and  #53 @ 29'' with 375gr. up front, total weight around 680gr. With a tip weight around 200gr. you should be fine.
I will have to check this out.  I have yet to try tuning these yet.  The last arrows I tuned were the tednugent goldtip 5575's and i had to but them to 30.5 and they were still slightly weak.  But i was shooting a 100 grain insert with 125 grain tips.  

Do you guys think that 75 grains will make a big difference with carbon arrows?  

I have read several posts that some people don't think 100 grains will make that big of a difference.  But i would like to know some of y'alls opinions.
"Blessed is the man who trusts in the LORD And whose trust is the LORD. Jeremiah 17:7

"There is a way which seems right to a man,
But its end is the way of death."  Proverbs 14:12

Biathlonman

I'd lose the 100 grain insert.  I'm gonna bet full length with a 145gr. Point will shoot great off of it.

DanielB89

QuoteOriginally posted by Biathlonman:
I'd lose the 100 grain insert.  I'm gonna bet full length with a 145gr. Point will shoot great off of it.
thanks.  I will do some tuning in the next few days.  Thanks for all the replies fellas.
"Blessed is the man who trusts in the LORD And whose trust is the LORD. Jeremiah 17:7

"There is a way which seems right to a man,
But its end is the way of death."  Proverbs 14:12


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