I have two dozen and have been using them for three years now.  Great shaft.....fly true and have stood the abuse I have given them.  Both of my bows, Bob Lee-55#@28 and RER-52#@28, I shoot the 500's with the old Bear razorheads.  Tuned them to my bows using Stu's calculator and they fly great.

Thanks Steve O and damascusdave.  400's it is. Can't wait to try them out.
Gary

Are the FMJ's quieter that a conventional aluminum arrow?

QuoteOriginally posted by Hermon:
Are the FMJ's quieter that a conventional aluminum arrow?

Yep.

Also guys, if you use JB Weld for the inserts rather than the junk epoxy Easton send with their shafts, you will have a MUCH more durable arrow. I do not waste time footing anymore.


  FMJ Experiment/Info

Steve
I know a few post back we talked about the FMJ change in carbon. Had to go back and look but man you are spot on. The FMJ showed its face back 2006 and had its change in 2011 to the N-Fused carbon and it change the GPI a little not much but a grain. I had to go back in my catalogs to see.
I have shot the AC Pro Hunters super nice arrow but for $160 for shafts versus $129.00 for FMJs and talerances being better in the FMJ my vote goes to Full Metal Jackets every time. And FMJs are stronger by far!!
And Steve O is right Use The JB Weld super tuff

Do you guys shooting the FMJ's bother footing them at all?  I just picked up a couple to try today and was just wondering.  Thanks.

Toby

Another thing that I like about them is the ability to fine tune two blade broadhead alignment with them. All I do is use the squaring stone to remove a little material from the shaft allowing me to get them aligned to my satisfaction.  I guess that would work on any hit insert though. Like stated above, they are very durable arrows. Oh, and you can find them easily with a metal detector when they sneak under the grass.

Toby

No need to foot like Steve O said JB WELD and take a look at his thread explains it perfectly it all I use in the arrow shop now!
FMJ Experiment/Info


GARY

Been looking at these quite a bit.  Are you guys shooting 5" or 4" feathers?

I've got some camo Axis and not sure there is enough room on them for 5".

QuoteOriginally posted by threeunder:
Been looking at these quite a bit.  Are you guys shooting 5" or 4" feathers?

I've got some camo Axis and not sure there is enough room on them for 5".

Curious as to your question.   I can see how 3 fletch or 4 fletch could make a difference on a small diameter shaft, but why do you feel the feather length make a difference?

I've not tried the FMJs, but have been shooting Easton ACCs for years.  They are by far my favorite arrow, like TRAP said, best of both worlds.  Not cheap though.

I've found ACCs to be pretty tough, I've broken a few in circumstances that would break any arrow and had them survive many hits that I though would destroy them.  One thing I like about them is I think the aluminum layer offers a bit of protection from the explosive nature of damaged all-carbon shafts.  I found one ACC that had the carbon cracked for half the circumference about 2" back from the point but it never broke.  I have no idea how many times I shot it in that condition.

Something that is rarely mentioned in arrow talk is the nocks.  The g-nock that is used with ACCs is another thing I like about them.  Small, consistent, and come in two sizes to fit different servings.

QuoteOriginally posted by threeunder:
Been looking at these quite a bit.  Are you guys shooting 5" or 4" feathers?

I've got some camo Axis and not sure there is enough room on them for 5".

YES

I'm shooting a 55# Howatt Hunter and pulling to a full 28 inches. I shoot 150 grain Stingers. What FMJ shaft size would I be looking at? Thank you

QuoteOriginally posted by 1Longbow:
I'm shooting a 55# Howatt Hunter and pulling to a full 28 inches. I shoot 150 grain Stingers. What FMJ shaft size would I be looking at? Thank you

400s--as always, start full length and shorten to stiffen.

A good way to temporarily install the inserts while doing this (cuz I like to do it with fletched shafts at the same time) is to wrap a little Glad Cling Wrap around the insert; and it does not take much!  This gives plenty of friction to allow the arrow to be pull out of every target I have tuned into.

I am gonna try 500's Steve and see what happens couldn't get the 400's to work for me cut from full length down to 29" I really like these arrows hope I can get something to work    

I am gonna try 500's Steve and see what happens couldn't get the 400's to work for me cut from full length down to 29" I really like these arrows hope I can get something to work    

Sorry for doublepost