Been shooting recurves about 25 years and for the life of me I cannot get the hang of the stringers that have a rubber pad that goes on the top limb and a pocket for the bottom . I use the ones with 2 pockets for the limb tips .

What am I doing wrong ? I slide the rubber pad as far up the limb as I can . But it feels like I'm about to break a bow getting them strung . Plus they scare the daylights out of me , I'm afraid the rubber pad is gong to slip on me .

Suggestions ?

The cup and block is the only one I have used. I just slide the block till it hits the string put both feet on the stringer with a wide stance and pull while I put the sting in the string groove. Scared me half to death the first time I strung my static tip but I'm used to it now.
Josh

Yep a learning curve for sure, but they work well especially for statics and big curve recurves.

Stabilize the rubber pad as you start flexing the bow and then it will stay put as you slide the loop up to the nock, make sure the string is in the grooves and then relax the tension.

Seems like you are making the limb flex where it don't normally flex .

I prefer the two pocket ones myself, particularly the one made by Black Widow. However, there are certain bows a two pocket stringer doesn't work very well on. Some bows have tiny upper limb tips, and the upper pocket swallows up the string groove. They don't work well with some longbows because the upper limb tip tends to slip out of the upper pocket.

For those bows, a stringer with a rubber pad works best.  Use one that is new enough that the rubber is still soft and will stick easily to the limb.  As was mentioned, using two feet on the string gives you better leverage on the upper limb, and will make it easier to get enough bend in the limb to string it.

These don't seem to be very popular on here,but I think they are bullet proof. They can't slip off and they are easily adjustable. I just figured I would post a picture so you could see how they work. They clip on over the top and bottom.

Mcdave the one I use the most is a black widow .

QuoteOriginally posted by Jack Whitmire Jr:
Seems like you are making the limb flex where it don't normally flex .

The block part usually is near the curve of the limb so you are bending the entire bottom limb and the middle of the upper limb were it bends in draw. You are only bending it a few inches not your full draw but only to get just past brace height.

Webster string IMO is the best on the market. It's made from nylon webbing and has a pocket on each end, it's great!

The block and pocket type one came with my Buffalo.  It was a little nerve racking actually using it for the first time.  I had visions of me and my $1000 bow with a snapped limb.  But I find it really good now.

I had no problems using the Webster when stringing up Kempf Kwyk Stiks here with static limbs. I made sure every customer had one when they ordered a bow from me.

I like the double pocket ones when the limb tips are long enough to access the string grooves.

I have a couple bows, one, a Habu has very short limb tips and none of my stringers except for the block or leather pad types give me access to move the string on or off the limb tip.

The two feet spread makes this much easier as stated above.

The advice I got for using one with a pocket and block was to shorten it if you are struggling with it.  I couldn't get one to string my Kwyk Styk until I shortened the stringer.

I have two of the block and pocket style and they work fine on all my recurves from 56" to 66".  Slide the block to the tip and hold it there as you step on the line and pull the bow up.

I use the stringer from Thunderhorn for my recurves and hybrids. Even for my static tip recurve. Works great and the rubber block never slipped.

I can get them strung using the block type stringer , but I don't get the warm and fussies doing so . Someone post a picture of the webster stringer please .

If you have a high brace height it is a little sketchy placing the rubber block that far down the limb but with a lower brace it is far enough out on the limb to not bother me.  x2 on using both feet to spread the load so you do not have to pull up so high with your arm.  I am short so this was just something I needed to do regardless of my stringer choice.  

My understanding(although it may be hog wash) is that the dual pocket stringers are harder on the upper limb because there is so little holding onto the very tip of the limb.  I guess the pocket and block are actually safer for the bow.  I use both depending on the bow being strung.

Went out on Web and looked at webster stringer , looks like it has a small pocket for upper limb .

The Webster has two pockets for the upper limb...one quite small and the other larger...I string most of my 16 bows with it...the others I use a Selway or the other style pictured with two pads...just need to pick the right stringer for the bow...my bows range in draw weight from 30 to 60 pounds...longbows, recurves and static tips

DDave

I shortened my cup and block stringer so I could use just one foot. I string bows from 66" longbow and recurve to 58" static tip recurves with no problem. I find I need to push the block slightly toward the tip as I start lifting to keep it from sliding down. Once sufficient tension is on the block, I've never had it slip.

That's not completely true. I did have a problem once and then remembered I'd waxed the bow limbs. I cleaned the rubber block with alcohol and no more problems. That's probably not a bad idea once in a while, wax or no wax. I imagine the block can get lint or dust on it and become a bit more slippery. I have the webster double pocket stringer, but really did not feel comfortable string my static tips with it, where as I find my cup and block easy to use with any of my bows; straight or bent.