Not sure where to post this exactly hopefully this is the right location. I have been making my own arrows out of Douglas Fir and other woods. Lately the Douglas fir I get from a local big store has been really tough to work with. Even though I get straight grain with no runouts the wood seems very brittle. I cut my wood down to 3/8 x 3/8 squares and then run them through my router jig to turn them. I have made at least 75 arrows this way with good results but lately all my wood seems to be very light spined and brittle.

Now the question. Is the wood used for arrow shafts processed differently then the wood that you would get off the shelf at a big store whatever that store is in your area?

Am I wasting my time trying to make quality arrows with the wood off the shelf?

I'm no arrow maker but I was a carpenter most of my adult life. Have you compared the growth rings between a good batch and a bad one. Don't know anything about Douglas fir as I'm on opposite end of the country . But after building enough years I can tell what a piece of pine will do and if it was grown on a plantation or in the wild. You may know all this already but if you do not  maybe it will help.

I will check that out I have samples still of both batches of arrows.

I am not expert but I have gone out with the Surewood guys to get wood before when I was living in Oregon. We spent the better part of a day cutting and loading Giant chunks of wood that looked good in the field... Don't think most of it ended up as shafts because those guys are pretty selective about what they use.... so I'm guessing that they at least try to be getting the wood and looking at grain run out and how the wood splits as far as internal grain... or whatever they call it. I'm guessing the wood business doesn't do that but sounds like you've had some good luck.  Could just be different moisture causing the brittle nature???
So in short... I don't know : )

you might try cutting the potential shafts a bit larger and compressing the wood.

BAB

One of the things I have noticed while cutting lodgepole pine for firewood is that the growth ring width and density can vary from one side of the tree to the other.  The brittleness would seem to be a matter of moisture content, but that;s just a guess.

I too have gotten widely varied results doweling out doug fir.

Good input - I will keep at it and see what i can accomplish...Thanks

As the Oregon Okie said we split our wood into bolts from logs that we cut our self.  Split bolts are better for arrow shafts than cut bolts or sawed lumber from the hardware store.  Plus lumber yard wood is kiln dried, which is a fast forced drying process, not cut into boards, and stacked and stickered and allowed to air dry for several months.  The process that we use we feel is the best for our business and makes the best arrow.  We just got back from the mountains today with a good load that we hope will make some future Surewoods.  Steve

Steve - thats what I was wondering. I figured the kiln dried was not the best when compared to a purposeful process of drying wood specifically for arrows. I guess when using lumber yard wood it will be more of a hit and miss.

What would be the best wood to attempt to use if I want to make up a few from the lumber yard?

As a rule mass weight in the wood gets you heavier spines.  Boards that are heavier in mass weight should get you heavier stronger arrows.

When I was making arrows commercially I found that Doug fir was very brittle if it was too dry. It is very pretty arrow wood but is not my first choice.