Hello first time post here.I'm interested in build a bow sometime this year.How long should the bow be for a 29-30 inch draw length be.How is cherry for making bows out of?What is the difference between spliting or cutting with a saw to make the bow staff?

Boy there is a lot of questions to go with those questions! LOL Easy answer is to get one of the excellent books out there read and then dive in. The answer to the cherry question for self bows is osage or hickory. Now before I get blasted, it can be done. However, my philosophy is if your gonna put the time and effort into building a bow you might as well start with quality wood. Kinda like training a good dog. Start with a good blood line. It can be done and done well with cherry. I think Mic and his brother Randy made a few from cherry a while back...guess that was almost ten years ago now...dang I am getting old! But I would still recomend the better woods. Comstock speaks about using all kinds of woods in "the bent stick" and even describes the performance, But even though it has been some time since we have exchanged some email I bet he is hunting with hickory or osage tonight!

Good luck! Brian

Welcome to the Gang Northshore!  Good to hear you will be trying to build a bow in the future.  Cherry can make a fine lighter weight bow at your longer draw as long as it has a sufficient backing(rawhide or thin hickory)for protection.  There are better options though, like hickory or ipe if you can get a hold of it. even better would be osage or yew, but those are hard to get a hold of sometimes.  Like Brian said, if you're going to go through the trouble of building a bow you might as well get good materials and do it right.  I'd also recommend getting a hold of some books on the subject to help you better understand the concepts.
Personally, for a 29-30" draw I'd stick with a 68" bow in a straight longbow design.  Otherwise you may well have uncomfortable stack at that draw length.
Splitting is typically used for selfbow staves as this allows the bowyer to better follow the grain and make interesting, unique bows.  Cutting with a saw will not allow the bowyer to follow the grain as well, but typically will allow more bow wood from a given tree.  The sawn staves are usually backed for durability as many times grain runoff is present which would otherwise compromise the structural integrity of the bow.  Good luck and keep us posted.  Cheers, Matt

What books would you recommend on building and shooting.I have just start shooting recurve.I traded my compound right at the start of bow season here.Kind of a silly thing to do.What determines draw weight when making a bow?

For bowyery I'd recommend the "traditional bowyer's bible" especially the first two volumes.  I've also heard good things about Dean Torges' book "Hunting the Osage Bow."  These will give you the basics. Good luck! Matt

What basic tools do you need to start?How dry does the wood have to be?

Sorry for my delayed post. Everyone is a bit different. My favorite tool is an old coleman pocket knife I sharpen on only one side. Second would be my bowyers edge tool, curved draw knife and then my old blacksmiths rasp. Everyone whittles a bit different. My first bows were flat bellied 66 inch long bows made from the Comstock book, "The bent stick". Now I use a combination of several selfbow builders tips and techniques but I think for the straight hunting bow, I lean towards Torges' designs the most. I have a bow I built off of Deans dimensions that I named "Denton Hill" in honor of a trip to ETAR close to 7 years or so ago and it is still by far my favorite bow to hunt with. She just whips a heavy arrow and has put much in the freezer.

Brian