Once you have a nock set on a bow, would it be the same place on all the your bows?

Not necessarily. Different designed bow, different grip, etc. could require either a higher or lower nocking point height.

No, but it would be a very good place to start with a new set up.

Not at all.  Every bow is an individual.  Most of mine are 3/8" - 1/2", but I have one that is 3/4"

When someone gives a dimension for a nocking point, is there a standard that everyone uses ?
Meaning: 1/2" - does that mean 1/2" to the bottom of the arrow nock, to the top of the arrow nock, middle ??   :confused:

Florida it means the measurement above the rest on the bow. You can use a bow square to find the 0 mark on the string. I set my nock point above the arrow then add a second below. I just eyeball mine till it flies good then tie one on. Hope that makes sense.

QuoteOriginally posted by magnus:
 You can use a bow square to find the 0 mark on the string. I set my nock point above the arrow then add a second below. I just eyeball mine till it flies good then tie one on.  

I do use a bow square, and I pretty much do the same when I tie on my nocks.
But...
1/2" to you would be where the bottom of your top nock point is set ?

I always measure mine to the bottom of the top nock point - hope that makes sense.

Yes Florida. That's how I would state it. 1/2 " would be to the bottom of my nock set. Too be honest I don't know what the exact measurement is. Never measured it.

And sometimes, not a lot, but sometimes as the string stretches, the nock point may move just a wee bit too. Something to think about before pulling your hair out.  

Pretty close on all mine.  3/8ths is where I start.  Got a couple at 1/2

Nope, nock point can be different as described earlier depending on bows grip, your grip(pressure point), your release, tiller, arrow diameter, dynamic spine to name some. So tune each bow to the best of your ability.

A bare shaft will tell you quickly if the nocking point is right.

QuoteOriginally posted by Don Stokes:
A bare shaft will tell you quickly if the nocking point is right.

Agreed 100%. Once I'm bareshafting showing slight nock high (<1" tear), and proper spine, I'm ready to go. I find if I try to get an absolute bullet hole with a bareshaft, my feathers get more contact with the shelf than with a slight nock high.

Broadhead tune to confirm.

I tune the same way, LittleBen. Slightly nock high for better clearance, even without a shelf.

Slightly nock high makes the arrow rise slightly off the shelf when you release- less noise and better clearance.