HH BUG GOT ME - Part Two!

JDBerry · May 12, 2014, 01:07:00 PM

100% With Centaur and Rob..x4 ...James

May 12, 2014, 01:36:00 PM

On his video, John says that arrow slides down to the nocking point. On my B 50 strings, the nock does not slide so easy. On thinner strings or with really open nocks, when it does slide that easy, it was a pain when hunting. I find that I can feel the nocking points with the side of my thumb and hit it dead on with no sliding. So most my bows have two. A bigger one under and a smaller one above.

JDBerry · May 12, 2014, 02:47:00 PM

Years ago I would nock above, but for any reson I had to take my fingers off the arrow nock, the arrow slid up the string. Went under "fixed that". ...James

two4hooking · May 12, 2014, 03:33:00 PM

I nock above. Arrow slides down to nock point. Have not had an issue since switching from nocking below. I find the Schulz/Hill method works fine for me. I use fat 18 strand B-50 and mercury speed nocks and have no issues..... but then I don't hang my bow and always have it in my hand with arrow on the string ready while hunting.

I set the top of my nock 1/8th above zero.

Rob DiStefano · May 12, 2014, 03:50:00 PM

trust me, you do not want an arrow nock to hug the center serving - it must be loose.

May 12, 2014, 04:06:00 PM

On my B50 strings for my heavy bows, the Mercury nocks would be tighter than I liked at first, but very soon would develop a trough. Then with a slight spreading of Mercury nock, it would fall off with no resistance. With new strings on lighter bows, that does not happen with my Mercury nocks, they are loose right from the start and they stay that way. Not saying that what John says does not work, but I get tired of chasing the nock down the string real quick when I am hunting.

kybownut · May 12, 2014, 04:25:00 PM

Thanks for all the input guys, I have nocked arrow under nocking point for years I guess that would be one less step that I wouldn't have to relearn! Does 3/8 " to bottom of nocking point sound like a good starting point? I use 5/8 on my recurves but it seems like it would be too high on the hill.

Rob DiStefano · May 12, 2014, 04:40:00 PM

all bows are different.

with that in mind, i set a dacron tied on nock point with its bottom "edge" 1/2" from the 90* mark. i shoot some arrows (that will be used with that bow) at that setting for evaluation at 10, 20 and 30 yards. then i move the np down and up in 1/16" increments, shooting the same arrows at those same distances, to see where that nock point really belongs.

David Mitchell · May 12, 2014, 05:45:00 PM

I set most all of my nocks on my Hills and similar styles at 5/8 above dead square (I nock under). But you have to find what works best for you. Until I do I just use a little strip of masking tape about 3/8" wide and inch long that can be easily moved until I hit the sweet spot.

Overspined · May 12, 2014, 07:03:00 PM

I differ from some of you with nock points on the string, for a reason I've come up with. I nocked under for years until I saw what happens with MANY shooters. Stand behind one who nocks under and look down the arrow when they draw. So many people apply pressure to the top of the arrow and actually bend the arrow downward.

Believe it or not, most or all of that goes away if you nock over the nocking pt on the string. You will find that spine becomes a bit less critical and any porpoising goes away.

My guess is Hill and others figured this out and just did it that way.

Rob DiStefano · May 12, 2014, 07:08:00 PM

it's all good, whatever works best is best.

as a split finger shooter, i am *ALWAYS* conscious of applying the most amount of string pressure to the middle "pluck yew" finger. in doing so, i want that finger snug to the arrow's nock and not the nock point.

May 12, 2014, 07:31:00 PM

The old rubber slide string nocks caused nothing but trouble for me. The brass pinch ons mark up my shooting glove. My favorite was those heat ons, minimal size. I have not seen them for years.

Rob DiStefano · May 12, 2014, 07:47:00 PM

you can replicate those heat shrink nocking points using 2 diameters of heat shrink tubing. but tying on a nocking point is easier, cheaper and adjustable.

kybownut · May 12, 2014, 08:18:00 PM

Thanks guys, I'm sure many more questions will follow! I've been going thru the hill thread a little at a time ,a lot of good information on here. It good when we share our opinions and ideas with others in order to help them out. Makes me glad I got bit !!!

Rob DiStefano · May 13, 2014, 07:19:00 AM

i use two methods for a tie-on nocking point. both used waxed bowstring fiber or waxed dental floss. i prefer the larger diameter dacron fiber, or doubled/tripled floss. i want it thick, so that it won't embed too deeply into the bowstring's center serving, so that when tied with not too tight a tension the knot can be turned up and down the serving, like a nut on a bolt.

you can just use overhand knots, or do a whipping, or do both, but both methods need to be finished off with a few drops of quality water thin cya, and allowed to harden. the resulting nock poing is both light and durable, and will last the life of the bow string.

knotted bowstring nock point

soap creek · May 16, 2014, 09:40:00 PM

Talked to Chuck at Two Tracks today. Got an Echo on order, 68in. 52@28 can't wait, but I guess I'll have to. Chucks a good guy to deal with.
Thanks "Mudd" for letting me shoot yours. Echo's are pretty nice bows for sure.

MikeNova · May 16, 2014, 10:41:00 PM

Yeah I like chuck I ordered some string silencers from him and after a month I called him up and he promptly sent me another pair. A week after they came the original pair showed up in the mail box. Seems the post office miss placed the and I tried to pay chuck but he wouldn't take it

kybownut · May 19, 2014, 03:10:00 PM

How well do hh broadheads work out of a 48# bow on deer size game? I know they're a lot of good 2 blades out there I was just wondering about the hills, don't seem to hear much about them! Thanks

May 19, 2014, 04:44:00 PM

We have shot lots of deer with standard Hills, both 140s and 160 s. I believe that our initial blood trails are better with our custom ground single bevel Hills. Sometimes with good hits with Hills the blood trail would start light and get heavier after 50 yards. I would like to say that ones we spent the effort getting shaving sharp were better than file sharpened ones, but in reality they worked about the same. If you are allowed to use barbed heads, they fly quieter and have cleaner penetration if you cut off the back guard, that will reduce the weight some as well.

kybownut · May 19, 2014, 05:08:00 PM

Thanks pavan,I do fairly well at sharpening stuff. I don't think we can use barbed heads in ky. But I'll have to check the regs. I think I'm probably gonna give em a try