So if I put a new material down for a rest, lets say Velcro. How does one tune the bow?

If it's slightly higher or lower than your previous material....adjust the nock point.

String twist (fistmele/brace) and nocking point is all ya get...80)

Gotta luv the simplicity...

99% of the time all you will have to do is adjust the nock point to where it was with the old material. If you have to go through and retune your arrow and everything then you probably were just borderline stiff or weak and not really getting perfect results from your tuning.

First think I'd do would be to check the brace height. On most longbows six inches give or take is close. This will affect side to side whipping of the arrow on the way to the target... fishtailing.

Then set the nocking point height. I'd start 1/8" above level and move it up an 1/8" at a time until the arrow flies without any up and down movement on the way to the target... porpoising.

Selecting the absolute perfect arrow for your bow gets a little more involved.There is an excellent article about bare shaft tuning that will help, but I don't have a link... someone will.

Do you level the bow then level the arrow and mark it?

QuoteOriginally posted by Charlie Lamb:


Selecting the absolute perfect arrow for your bow gets a little more involved.There is an excellent article about bare shaft tuning that will help, but I don't have a link... someone will.

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  Tuning

Level the arrow and mark it.

When they say "level" that really means square, or perpendicular to the string. Invest in or borrow a bow square. Cheap and simple.

There is a lot you can do to tune longbows.  You can adjust brace height and nock point height as mentioned above.  You can also use different shelf and window material.... you can add/subtract silencers to string, etc....  You can also tuen your arrows by size, length and point weight

If you want to learn the nitty gritty of tuning, and have your arrows flying true I can not suggest Byron Fergusons "tuning for extreme accuracy" any higher. Hands down one of the best investments I've made in traditional archery. Absolute game changer.

I can take a brand new bow, new shafts and in about 15 min have an arrow combo that will stack Broadheads and field points all day. I love the video and his down go earth instruction

Hi Brian, any idea where I can get the Byron Ferguson tuning DVD?  Thanx,....Lloyd

If the brace is too high or too low, the bow will probably become noticeably louder.  Somewhere between the two, the bow will become noticeably quieter.  Somewhere within that sweet spot, is your correct brace.  There are many ways to test and adjust the brace within that sweet spot for final tuning.  One technique is to shoot through paper at about 8-feet and fine tune your brace higher or lower in small amounts to eliminate any left or right tears on the horizontal plane.

You'd do the same for the nocking point height to fine tune and eliminate any up or down tears on the vertical plane.  This is most often used to make small final corrections to match point of impact between your hunting broadheads and target field points.

The above works well if your arrows fall somewhere in the middle of the bell curve for correct overall spine as needed for you and your bow.  But, the above may not work so well if your arrows fall somwhere on the outer edges of the bell curve where they are too stiff or too weak.

Best  

Canadian,
3rivers archery is a sponsor to TG and they carry it for sure.

OK, thanx..... Going to order one.     Lloyd