After about 15 years away from the sport, I managed to get back into trad archery for $110.00.  I did lots of research, lots of bargain hunting, and used a little bit of luck.

A few months back, I stumbled across a couple of old recurves at the flea market and not knowing much anymore I just kept looking for several weeks.  Well one Sunday morning, my father (he never gave up archery) decided to join my son and I at the flea market.  The bows were still there and my dad knew what they were.  So after I did my magic and haggling, I scored a very nice conditon Browning Wasp for $40!

This was the first step.  I found the proper fast flight string on a popular auction site for $11 shipped.  Now I had a shootable bow, but nothing to shoot!

Lots of searching later, I managed to find a brand new company offering carbon arrows for a reasonable price per dozen.  I won't name them here because they aren't an advertiser here, but if you email me I will let you know.

So, for $62.00 shipped I got a dozen 400 carbon arrows, cut to length, fletched and ready to shoot!  I haven't been able to touch this price for a dozen arrows from anywhere, not even the Easton variety they make for pro shops to sell cheaply.

Now, that's a good buy for me!  I've been working on my form, and drawing the bow daily trying to build my muscles back up before I ever decide to launch an arrow down range.  Feeling good and getting comfortable with this poundage.


Here is my equipment...

 

This shot shows the chatoyance in the wood, it is very active and extremely handsome looking I think.  I still need a rest installed, but haven't decided if I want to use a flipper or pad.

 


Thanx for checking this out and for being such a welcoming and helpful bunch!

Cheers!

Nice rosewood (I think) on that bow!

     

Enjoy!

Shoot straight, Shinken

 

Nice bargain hunting!  I'm not sure about the fast flight string though.  I don't know about the Browning personally, but generally older bows should have a dacron string.  That's a great looking bow - I'd hate to see the string cause any problems.

Do NOT use a fast flight string on that bow unless the loops are padded as you will risk splitting the limb tips. Most use B-50 strings on the classic bows or padded loop ff strings.

That's a nice older bow. Personally, I wouldn't use a fastflight string on a bow unless it was specifically ok'd by the bowyer.
However, lots of folks use high performance strings on older bows with no problems.

Guy

Jeez, we must have all been typing at the same time.

Guy

Only a properly built padded loop string! Otherwise use Dacron.

Looks sharp brother. Make sure it's got reinforced tips to handle that string

Thanx for the warning about the string, but I have always used fast flight strings on my recurves when I shot in the past and never had any issues, though I will not brush off the information.

Fwiw, the bow does have two layers of glass for the nock tipping, and the string is served up to the split and around the loop.  Not sure if this is "padded" or not.


Thanx!

QuoteOriginally posted by gunfixrjoe:
Looks sharp brother. Make sure it's got reinforced tips to handle that string

Glad to see ya here Joe!  Thanx!

Fast Flight for Trad Bows is a relatively new material.

I would agree with the advice to "get a dacron string".... You are risking damage to a beautiful old classic recurve.

get a hoyt pro hunter rest on there for just a couple bucks...worth it's weight in gold! Very easy to tune, great for hunting, and will fit on that bow nicely.

the wasp is a good bow, my daughter shoots one and so does her son.  as mentioned already, older bows are best strung only with dacron strings.  enjoy!

Nice wood on the bow. I don't recommend fast flight though and your .400 arrows may prove to be stiff although you didn't mention any weight on the bow. But give them a try and it may work out.

My first "real" bow was a Wasp.  Shooting a '66 Kodiak Mag now.  Like those old classics.

I noticed the arrows may have plastic vanes.You may want to try feathers if shooting off the shelf.

QuoteOriginally posted by reddogge:
Nice wood on the bow. I don't recommend fast flight though and your .400 arrows may prove to be stiff although you didn't mention any weight on the bow. But give them a try and it may work out.

The bow is 50# @28" and nice and short for hunting with only a mere 56" amo.  I draw 29" but ordered my arrows cut to 31" to be on the safe side.


Guys, I'm still curious of the reason for damage from a fast flight string. I have always shot with a FF string back when I was shooting all the time.  I never owned a new bow, always old ones.

Cheers!

QuoteOriginally posted by oldway:
I noticed the arrows may have plastic vanes.You may want to try feathers if shooting off the shelf.

Yeah, I do have a Bear Weather rest I need to install, but I haven't decided if I want to use that particular one or not.

If your string loops are served, you probably have a continuous loop, as opposed to a Flemish twist string.  The serving should provide sufficient mass/diameter to protect the limb tips.  

The main issue with fast flite type strings on older bows is that the narrower diameter, physically harder material (i.e., harder than dacron) tends to saw off plain tips.  Padding the string loops and/limb tip overlays help reduce that tendency. Aside from this, I think that the low stretch strings are actually easier on bows because they dampen limb vibration more quickly. Sometimes, older bows delaminate beginning at the limb tips.  Some feel this is caused by the non-stretch strings stopping the limbs too fast. Difficult to say.  Could be the bow is just old and the delamination would have occurred regardless of the string used.  It certainly happens with dacron strings as well.

All that being said, I use padded loop  D-97 Flemish strings on my older bows. Makes them quieter, gentler in the hand and adds a few fps.

As others have noted, if you want to shoot off the shelf, will likely need to replace the vanes with feathers. .400 is on the stiff side for a 50# bow.  May need to add a bit of point weight, brass insert in addition to the target point or broadhead, to get them to fly correctly.  Good luck.