So I'm close guys to creating my first wood arrow set! Thanks so very much for all you very nice people that parted with great gear oven the last 45days. I plan to put it all to good use.

My question is to double check my stain, finish,glue combo just to make sure I don't make a stupid mistake?
I was going to use
mini wax poly stain,
use mini wax poly clear coat,
Rustoleum Enamel for cresting,
Testors enamel model paint for cresting,
Bohning Ferr-L- tite point glue

not sure of fletching glue? Bohning Fletch- tite ok?
And what ever I use on the fletching I can use on the nock right?

Sound ok guys? Thanks Jim

I recently made three doz arrows on top of the bazillion I already have and used min wax polyacrilic (sp)water base and duco cement for the glueing on of feathers.  I have used everything out there and this combo is cheap and really holds on the water based min wax acrilic finish

Bohning Fletch Tite doesn't bond well with non-Bohning products. Bohning products are made to bond together well.  If using other than Bohning paints, many people use Ducoe cement.

Yes and be careful that the poly don't make your cresting smear or run! Shawn

Put a couple of poly coats over the crest to make sure!!

OK, thanks for looking at it guys. I appreciate the input.

QuoteOriginally posted by SELFBOW19953:
Bohning Fletch Tite doesn't bond well with non-Bohning products. Bohning products are made to bond together well.  If using other than Bohning paints, many people use Ducoe cement.

I have to disagree. I ownly use fletch tite for my feathers and I don't use any other Bohning products. I do use Duco and that is only for my nocks. I have been doing it this way for over 25 years.

The wifes nail polish and my furniture spray finishes make a real mess...

Your combination sounds fine except I use the Minwax Polycrylic water base over my stains and Rustoleum enamel caps.  It also works great over the Testers cresting work.  Put two coats over the top of everything as your last steps.  It's easy to clean up with water and is pretty tough.  And Duco works super well for the fletchings and nocks.  Good luck and have fun.

Thank You Drew!

I've let the cresting stand over night before first coat of poly. Also I use duco for fletch with poly and it works great and it'cheap and available everywhere. Also have been using Kimsha Quick-Stick hot melt glue for points.

Ok smoke! Thanks guys stain going on today! Ha

Ok guys you got me. I have been making my own wood arrows for 30 years now and every time I get away from bohning products I run into some kind of a problim. But with the bohning products becoming way too costly I am willing to try again. So you all are saying I can use water based minwax clear coat and stain with oil based rustoleum enamel paint for my crown dip? And duco is fine for my feathers and hot melt for my points? Or should I use all oil based minwax products with the rustoleum enamel paint?

Also is this stain the kind that they have to mix? I have been to lowes and that is the only water based minwax stain they sold.

Finally started to work on my Surewood shafts. I applied 2 coats of Minwax Colonial Maple stain.

Tomorrow...Minwax Polyurethane, will hand rub in 4 coats after each coat dries, lightly sanding in between. Once the bottom of shaft is sealed, will apply one thin coat of Poly to 9" nock end.

After drying, crown dip with Bohning White, then redip again with a partial Hot Pink. Bohning crests and Bohning Glue for the nock and feathers.

Sort of old fashioned here, been using Bohning products for years with great results so I won't change....

dbond stay away from the water-based poly, stick with all the oil based stuff, paint, cresting and all. Shawn

Great , thank you. Is it ok to use the rustoleum enamel with the minwax stain and clear coat or poly. or spar ?

Shawn,
why do you say stay away from water based poly?  I use it with great results wipe it on with a rag and steel wool between coats and it doesn't make the cresting run like oil based.

QuoteOriginally posted by J.T.:
Shawn,
why do you say stay away from water based poly?  I use it with great results wipe it on with a rag and steel wool between coats and it doesn't make the cresting run like oil based.

X2.  Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but All I use is the waterbased, and have had nothing but excellent results.  Minwax oilbased stain, Rustoleum paint and testors model car paint all topped with Waterbased polyurethane wood floor finish.

I guess I am going to have to try both.