I'm attempting to build my 10 yr old some wood arrows. I bought some 1/4" dowels and some glue on nocks and field points. The issue I'm having is the shafts are a little too fat to go into the 1/4" field point. I'm guessing it needs to go in all the way to keep it straight and true. Any ideas on what I can use to turn down these shafts evenly?

Is the inside of the point tapered or parallel?  Looks like that one may be tapered.  If so, you'll need a tapering jig.  Will need one for the nock end as well.  The taper is 5 degrees for the point end and 11 degrees for the nock end.  Most trad vendors sell hand held "pencil sharpener" type tapering jigs.  However, I believe most only go down to 5/16 in diameter.  If so, and if your shafts are 1/4 inch, can wrap some masking tape around them to get them to 5/16 where they fit into the jig.

Or, if you have a table saw or disc sander, can make your own taper boards and grind the tapers with power equipment.  There are a number of tutorials in the how to section.

For as small as it is (1/4"), if you have a steady hand/eye, go ahead and wittle it with a pocket knife.  You can buy a point/nock taper tool that is similar to a pencil sharpener, but I would try the wittling if there are only a couple to do.

That's definitely a tapered point, I've used lots of them. As has been mentioned, you'll need to taper the wood for the point and the nock.

Guy

QuoteOriginally posted by Orion:
 Is the inside of the point tapered or parallel?   Looks like that one may be tapered.  If so, you'll need a tapering jig.  Will need one for the nock end as well.  The taper is 5 degrees for the point end and 11 degrees for the nock end.  Most trad vendors sell hand held "pencil sharpener" type tapering jigs.  However, I believe most only go down to 5/16 in diameter.  If so, and if your shafts are 1/4 inch, can wrap some masking tape around them to get them to 5/16 where they fit into the jig.

Or, if you have a table saw or disc sander, can make your own taper boards and grind the tapers with power equipment.  There are a number of tutorials in the how to section.

Yes it is tapered. I used a pencil sharpener for the nock end but the field point is deep and the shaft would have to be turned down farther back for it to go to the bottom of the field point otherwise it would be hard to get it to stay on or spin true.

Be sure to use a hot melt type glue or epoxy, if you don't the child will lose more points than arrows.

QuoteOriginally posted by Surewood Steve:
Be sure to use a hot melt type glue or epoxy, if you don't the child will lose more points than arrows.

He lost both points on the two arrows that came with the bow  :rolleyes:  
Thanks for the advice, I was going to ask what I should use.  

There is a difference between a "pencil sharpener" and a "pencil-type sharpener."
The ones made for pencils do not have the right taper. You need a tool made for archery. Generally they'll have two holes, one for the point and the other for the nock.

Guy

here is a link to you basic taper tool that i use, doesnt cost much and does the job. I think your going to be building quite a few of them from the sound of things. It will be fun though.Enjoy    

http://www.kustomkingarchery.com/BearPaw-Taper-Tool/productinfo/4720/

Corey, clean the inside of the point before gluing it.  Some have scale on the inside and the glue bond will not hold.  I use denatured alcohol and que tips.

Billy