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Getting weight up on arrows, what method?

Started by Safari Scott, March 06, 2013, 01:11:00 AM

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Safari Scott

Hi All,

So at the moment I've been using aluminum arrows that weigh about 540 grains which my bow slings out plenty fast. I want to switch to Carbon, but the ones I'm looking at are at about 11gpi for their heaviest.

I'm looking to take Australian pigs which most people seem to think 550-600 grains is good for. So I worked out with these carbon ones at 32 are only going to come at about 480 grains.

Now that is with a 125 grain broad head so I'm wondering what you guys think the best way to rack up a hundred grains is? Heavier broadhead, tube, brass insert... I don't know, I'm getting okay at shooting now but I'm an absolute skunk when it comes to anything to do with arrows and tuning.

Thanks a bunch,

Scott

Richie

2 50 grain gt. Inserts should do the trick. That is if you use gt. Arrows.
Once a Marine always a Marine, Semper Fi

Bongos

Easton Axis or Beman mfx with 100 gr HIT brass inserts are heavy hitting
Hummingbird Kingfisher 48# 62"
Black Widow PSA X 53# 60"
Mon River mongoose 48# 64"
Toelke Whip Classic 48# 64"
Abbott Longbow 47# 58"
Win Win x 2

Richie

Once a Marine always a Marine, Semper Fi

Birdbow

I like 50 or 100 grain brass inserts. That way I can change out the front weight by changing the point weight i.e. 100 gr. insert + 200 gr. point gives me 300 up front.
Unadulterated truth is not pablum.

A simplification of means and an elevation of ends is the goal. Antoine de St.-Exupery

ishoot4thrills

100 grain inserts. If your arrow comes out too weak with the added point weight you can just build out the side/strike plate until all is well.
58" JK Traditions Kanati Longbow
Ten Strand D10 String
Kanati Bow Quiver
35/55 Gold Tip Pink Nugents @ 30"
3 X 5" Feathers
19.9% FOC
49# @ 26.75"
165 FPS @ 10.4 GPP (510 gr. hunting arrow)
171 FPS @ 9.7 GPP (475 gr. 3D arrow)
3 Fingers Under

WESTBROOK

AD Hammer Head lite, 30" 250g pt = 625g.

Eric

onewhohasfun

I like the weight up front. Brass inserts, heavy broadheads.
Which shafts are you using?
You may need to go to a stiffer spine.
Tom

Matty

With all the heavier available broadheads out there you might just want to bump your insert to 50 gr brass. And then pich your head of choice. They are making 200 + gr broadheads as well. I've used, in the past. Air tubing for fish tank pumps. Can be bought at WMT for something like $5 and you get enough for 1/2 dozen arrows. The tube is quite consistentand can give you a couple hundred extra grains. The only problem I've found is when you shoot at a hard target like 3D the nocks pop off.  Dab o glue helps.

UrbanDeerSlayer

Go up a spine in carbon. Leave the arrow longer if necessary and load up the tip weight with a 100g insert. I shoot almost 12gpp out of a 47# bow, by shooting 32" GT 5575 Trads with 225g up front. Shoots about 165-170 fps. Not heavy enough, go up some more spine weight, but over 12gpp the arrow really starts to slow down.
Shoot Straight, Feel Great!

Safari Scott

Hey all, thanks for the replies! I was actually thinking I'd use the carbon express heritage, as they come in a 320 spine at 12 gpi. That way I could probably get it to about 530 with the arrow and the essentials, that way if I whacked in a 50 grain brass insert up the front it would be around 580, or I could just buy a set of dangerous game broadheads at 215 grain, that would put the rig at 620 - think that would be enough?

The only issue I have with using a heavier head as opposed to an insert is that my hunting weight would be 90 grains heavier than my target weight, which I imagine would cause me to be inconsistent when it counts? So maybe I would be better off with inserts?

I didn't realise how much though goes into it after you've already got the bow sorted!

UrbanDeerSlayer

Any weight you add up front will effect your arrow tune. for example you could add 200g up front with a 200g tip or combination of 100g insert and 100g tip.  If your arrows are flying good as is, and you then decide to put in a heavier insert, your arrows may start shooting a bit weak. If it was me, I'd heavy up a shaft and then use it on targets to get used to how it fly's out of your bow. I usually 3D shoot and hunt with the same set up.
Shoot Straight, Feel Great!

slivrslingr

QuoteOriginally posted by Safari Scott:

The only issue I have with using a heavier head as opposed to an insert is that my hunting weight would be 90 grains heavier than my target weight, which I imagine would cause me to be inconsistent when it counts? So maybe I would be better off with inserts?
Just buy some field points that are the same weight as your broadheads, problem solved.  And yes, a 600 grn. arrow would be plenty for pigs.

Safari Scott

@Silvrslingr

Yep, down at my local the biggest they had was 125 grain but 3rivers has 200 plus grain points. Problem solved indeed!

njloco

What is your draw weight ?

For 3-D shooting I shoot a light arrow, for hunting I just change the weight up front by adding or subtracting a brass insert. Gives a lot of flexibility and easy enough to change.

  • Leon Stewart 3pc. 64" R/D 51# @ 27"
  • Gordy Morey 2pc. 68" R/D 55# @ 28"
  • Hoyt Pro Medalist, 70" 42# @ 28" (1963)
  • Bear Tamerlane 66" 30# @ 28" (1966)- for my better half
  • Bear Kodiak 60" 47# @ 28"(1965)

hedgerowhuntr

100gr brass inserts are a must, but then look for glue on broadheads and use have steel inserts. Right now my current setup is 100gr brass inserts, 100gr magnus 2 blade broadheads, and 100gr steel insert, 300gr right up front. Great penetration.  :thumbsup:

LittleBen

I like brass insert weights, either alone, or in combination with brass inserts. The thread into the insert from the nock end of the arrow, they require a long allen key tool. but once you have it it's easy to use them to tune an arrow if you change bows or limbs or rest or w/e

Trumpkin the Dwarf

Lots of options out there...if you want to use a heavy broadhead you have to tune your arrow to account for the extra weight.

My personal method of tuning is designed to give me a heavy arrow with a balance point that is as close to the broadhead as possible(for my rational, do a search on the Dr. Ashby reports).

To do this I pick a shaft that is fairly stiff in spine compared to my draw weight(ex: I draw 68 lbs, I use a Gold Tip 7595 trad which is .300 spine). How close your bow is cut to center affects this(my bow is cut 1/8" shy of center).

I leave them full length(I draw 32") and put a 100 gr insert in the end. **if you cut your arrows shorter that will stiffen them as well**

Next I shoot bare shafts using different point weights until my arrows are entering the target on a straight vertical line (nock is not left or right of the line) anywhere past 7 yards. That point weight for me is 250ish grains.

Now I move my nocking point up or down until the arrow enters the target on a straight horizontal line (the nock is not high or low).
*****use a foam target as the arrows can slide left or right in a bag target*****

I fletch my shafts and I am done.

My personal setup ended up with 365 grains up front(counting the insert) and at 11 gpp with a high Front of Center balance.
Malachi C.

Black Widow PMA 64" 43@32"


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