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FMJ with recurve

Started by freebird134, February 04, 2013, 10:30:00 PM

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freebird134

I am planning to get a 35# recurve and want to shoot full metal jackets. I have a 29" draw length and was thinking of shooting 30 or 31" arrows off the shelf with 100 or 125 tips.  Would a 500 spine be appropriate?  That is was the Easton calculator says, but I also know Easton is notoriously conservative (stiff).

Thank you.

Steve O

I think those will be stiiff out of that setup.

Mitch H

Having no experience with a 35# bow, well, not since 40 years ago, I would hazard a guess that an arrow like you described would be either good to go, or slightly stiff. The good thing is, all you would need to do is add weighted inserts until the spine loosened up to your liking.

Tough to beat FMJ`s.
Gerhart recurve
1960 Bear Grizzly
Wes Wallace Mentor
Dave Miller "Old Mahoning" Hybrid Longbow

People that are not willing to stand up for what is right, deserve no protection from those that will!

FerretWYO

Might have to try a little more tip weight. But you will be close
TGMM Family of The Bow

freebird134

31" arrows and 125g?  Still too stiff?

I like FMJs and found agood deal on 500s.  I want a tough arrow for stump shooting and a heavy arrow if I decide to hunt with it (30# is the minimum here)

Steve O

Like Randy said, you might try more point weight but I am shooting those shafts out of a 53# @ 30" longbow with 125g heads drawn to 30".    Again  I think it will be stiff for a 35# recurve!  

Since every bow is different just give it a try, you should be able to unload those shafts pretty easy.

freebird134

Thanks guys.  

Can you recommend a durable arrow that would be better suited for my needs?

oldbohntr

Well, seriously, I think the arrow that fits your description is a Microflite #5 or #6.  They haven't made those in about 40 years, but there are still a few that show up now and then. There wasn't a tougher arrow ever made, in my experience. MJ Log fiberglass shafts were less tough, but also available in #5. This new Ferguson Heavy Hunter may be tougher, but .500 is their lightest spine as well.

If I were you, I'd pick the right carbon or aluminum shaft for the bow, and foot it externally with aluminum and suffer whatever damage occurs. Alternatively, you can find footed cedar shafts in the right spine, and they still cost less than FMJs.

Good luck!
Tom

freebird134

this is so confusing.  If Easton arrow charts can't be trusted, how does a guy know what to pick?!?

Rick Richard

That would be way too stiff.

Rick Richard

I believe a 600 spine shaft is where you want to be.  You could shoot it full length with the weight upfront you are desiring and still have some length to play with if wanting heavier points.

I have a 1/2 dozen 600 Axis N-Fused shafts available if you want to give it a try.  PM me if interested.

Steve O

Right, .600s or maybe a 1916/18 would work.  

Gold Top has 15/35s that I am told are pretty durable.

Bill Carlsen

The Easton charts are more for compounds. If you use their traditional charts they, too, can be misleading.
The best things in life....aren't things!

Manitoba Stickflinger

These guys are right...the 500's will be too stiff. Steve O's last post puts you right on for spine!

Zradix

I know on my Wife's 35# recurve drawing 28" my 500 spine shafts with 200 grain tips are too stiff.

Haven't tried it with my 300 tips.

I think you might want to look at some 600 spine shafts. not a whole lot of that spine out there.
Beman makes a shaft called "centershot" in 600 spine. They have a wood grain appearance and pretty cool looking cresting. They're 7.1gpi in the 600 spine.
Don't know how tough they are.

Also I think easton axis and goldtips come in 600 spine..

depending what you're hunting you maaaayy want to think about a bit heavier b-head just to be on the safe side.
If some animals are good at hunting and others are suitable for hunting, then the Gods must clearly smile on hunting.~Aristotle

..there's more fun in hunting with the handicap of the bow than there is in hunting with the sureness of the gun.~ F.Bear

njloco

I have both Micro's and GT1535's and there is no comparison, GT's win out every time!, with a heavier tip weight you should be good, and they could stay with you all the way up to 50+#'s. For 3-D and stump shooting just foot them with some aluminum and your good to go, they will last you a long, long time.

If you want FMJ's good luck with them also.

  • Leon Stewart 3pc. 64" R/D 51# @ 27"
  • Gordy Morey 2pc. 68" R/D 55# @ 28"
  • Hoyt Pro Medalist, 70" 42# @ 28" (1963)
  • Bear Tamerlane 66" 30# @ 28" (1966)- for my better half
  • Bear Kodiak 60" 47# @ 28"(1965)

freebird134

Thanks everyone.  I've realized not to trust the manufacturer's charts and Stu Miller's Excel spreadsheet is a lot mroe useful!

bigbadjon

I think there is no way you will get a .500 to fly. Even if you left them full length and loaded the front you will be going beyond a 500 gr arrow.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

Wheels2

The FMJs now also come with a heavy point insert.  I am not a fan of the HIT inserts.  A hard hit can loosen the insert and drive the point back into the shaft damaging it.  To get around that you can use a half-out point insert from GoldTip Kinetics.  They fit the .204" inside of the FMJs.
Super Curves.....
Covert Hunter Hex9h
Morrison Max 6 ILF
Mountain Muffler strings to keep them quiet
Shoot as much weight as you can with accuracy


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