Just started working with wood arrows.  Looks like I need 160 gr.points to tune but I don't have any 160gr. Broadheads.  Was thinking about trying to save some money and just using one of the 125-135gr. Broadheads I already have with a nail in the end of the shaft to make weight.  Anyone already done the testing to figure out what size commonly available nail I'd need to do that.

I wouldn't drive a nail into the end of the shaft. Unless you have the internal footing jig. It will split. I use tiny lead split shot and add them in the head. You might have to shorten your taper a bit. The glue will keep them in place. Bird shot for shotgun shells work too but I don't have them.

Years ago i built a jig to drill a hole down the center. I gave some to friends who recently told me they are for sale at a trad catalog!  Put a 1/8 inch hole done the center and use 6 shot.   Or you can melt solder in that hole

Those jigs Magnus and Roadkill are speaking of are the way to go.Then you can add what you want and make them consistant.

I weighed a few sizes:

1-3/4" finish nail     15 gr.
2-1/2  finish nail     20 gr.  1/8" dia.
2-1/2  Galvze finish   40 gr.  9/16"
3-0    Galvze casing   80 gr.

The common internal point weight and footing jig uses a 9/64" drill, for either the 11/32, or 23/64" jig. A 6" long drill bit is available thru the dealer or your home improvement cntr.

how bout a couple pc of lead shot in the bh. ive done it with field points

I use #8 bird shot from shot gun shell.#9 works better but I already have #8.

So what I'm gathering I need to quit being cheap and buy some 160 gr. Broadheads!...lol

You can do the solder in the broadhead, as well. Once you know how long a piece you will need it is very consistent and easy to do.

So what I'm gathering I need to quit being cheap and buy some 160 gr. Broadheads!...lol

I wouldn't say that unless you want too. Many ways to tinker in tradional archery. If you have a grain scale adding to the point is easy. All depends on how much you like to mess with this stuff.

Many of us gravitate towards tinkering.  I think that is part of being "traditional".  If I liked the broadheads I had,  I myself would tinker.  Lots of ways to do that in this instance.
ChuckC

I've done a fair bit of front loading the shafts using 1/8" lead wire.  It is 35 grains per inch, heavier than any nail and quite cheap.  Tungsten is heavier, but too expensive for me.  I drill my shafts with a jig in a drill press rather than a drill guide.  Drilling a 2" hole is pretty easy, 3" seemed to be the practical limit.  You would need only an inch or less with the lead wire.  A brad point bit helps with drill wander.  Filling the ferrule with shot, solder, etc. works, but to get 30 gr you will lose quite a bit of the ferrule's depth which can lead to alignment and strength issues.  I didn't like it.

Considering the time, effort and cost involved, new 160 gr heads is a pretty reasonable option, or just leave your arrows a little long.

What fletcher said x2

New heads it is.  I figure by the time I get set up with a jig and materials to fill, I'll probably be way more expensive then a half dozen ace or tusker heads.  Just need to get my bow back from refinishing and I'll get everything confirmed and set up.  Thanks all.

Lots of good 160 class broadhead options, I can recommend the 165 gr Ace Express.  Overall, still one of my favorite broadheads.

QuoteOriginally posted by Fletcher:
Lots of good 160 class broadhead options, I can recommend the 165 gr Ace Express.  Overall, still one of my favorite broadheads.

X2

Howard Hill 160grn Head