3 Rivers now offers a laminated birch shaft, wondering if anyone had experience with them? Was the spine close to what the are grouped in? Straightness and consistency? Average weight? Have not bought many wood shafts in a while cause I don't like to make expensive tomato stakes. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks guys!

curious of opinions too?

I like the idea of them cause it says its a heavier arrow and with it being laminated it would be easier for fletching because the grain would always be consistent but just want to hear from someone who had experience with them and how they turned out.

give 3R a call and talk to them about the spine and weight grouping.  I really like the laminated shafts I've used in the past from other vendors.

Mike

I like them for stump shooting.  They are a tough arrow.  I have heard that for some they are hard to keep straight.  That has never been an issue for me though.  If you are looking for a tough, heavy arrow this is the shaft.

I would think the laminations would keep it straight......?

dunno though, would love to hear from anyone using them.....

I've tried them in the past. They made a HEAVY arrow. Mine were over 700 grains with a 160 up front. Most we're straight but the ones that weren't were a bear to straighten and never stayed that way. They did hit hard but dropped big time from 15 to 20 yards. Big difference. It was more the bow but it was an issue. Personally I prefer a poplar shaft or cane but you won't know till you tried them.

I had very good luck with the ones I got from 3 Rivers.....still have some and hunt with them now and then. Made a 725 gr arrow with glue on Delta up front. I made them for a bear hunt in New Brunswick and just kept shooting them. I think you would be pleased....and they are tough!  

A very tough, heavy arrow.  Never had trouble with straightness-came straight and stayed that way.  As Magnus noted, they fly great, but at roughly 20 yards they drop like a stone.  At "MY" normal ranges-less than 20 yards-they are hard to beat!!

I've shot lam birch for years.
Durable, heavy, and for the most part consistent when purchased from high end retailers (have had a few 'culls' that ended up as tomato stakes).

I don't shoot a bow under 65#'s, so for me they are one of the few easily available wood arrows that give me the weight and spine i need. Needless to say, i don't have a trajectory issue like those shooting lighter rigs will have.

I have found the key is to do two rounds of straightening by hand BEFORE any finishing work. Use a hair dryer or heat gun, but don't heat them too much (too hot to touch), or you run the risk of damaging them.

Straighten and roll on flat surface. Use a bottle for burnishing as well. Once they are straight, bundle them up tightly and let them sit for a week. Repeat this again after a week.

Then cut/taper and finish. Be sure that ALL exposed wood is sealed. That is the key with lam birch. They will stay incredibly straight if they are completely sealed. I like spar varnish, about four coats with light steel wool in between.

I have some lam shafts that are still perfectly straight seven or eight years later, after multiple trips in all kinds of weather.

Do they spine differently from regular wood...like Doug Fir?

Thanks for all the great info guys, think I am going to give them a shot. Daz, appreciate the specifics.

Daz, what spine did you start with? Taper 10"? What weight bows?

I don't recommend tapering, and i always orient the lams horizontally, as opposed to vertically (when viewed from nock end). The nature of the lams means a variance in spine at 90 degrees most of the time (stiffer when horizontal), and it is just safer from an arrow integrity standpoint.

My bows are now 65,67,69, and 74. I tended to use the 85-90 spine in my 80# HSS when i had it. My 74# HSS is happy with 80-85 spine, cut down to 29 1/4 (I draw 28 3/4), with a 160gr. up front.

I'm not a fan of lighter broadheads, so i always try to accomodate spine for a heavier point up front.

I did hear they are hard to straighten also, but a friend used a steel pipe on his by letting the shafts roll on a table to check for the bends and once the arrow stops rolling roll it another 1/4 tunr and then roll the pipe down the shaft applying a "little more" pressure than you would a regular wood shaft,,, or you guys get the idea.

folks sight down the shaft looking for bends which is the only way once fletched but bare shafts just let them rool across the kitchen table,,,,, ELite arrows has a Ytube vid showing how he straightens his arrows on a flat surface.

here is my take.they are very heavy,they are strong,they stayed stright for me but as already said they will drop like a rock after 20 yds.also you just cant put them in a pencil sharpener to do the points you have to grind them when I bought them I was charged for the grinding service an if they are wrong you gotta deal with that as far as you telling what lenth to cut them at an such.I would think if you could gettum to fly good they are a good shaft they would certainly pack a wollop.good luck

I love mine. Granted I'm all skinny diameter carbons these days, I held onto my straightest batch of 3 finished arrows.

I like to get them out every now and then for a stump shoot. 160 gn tips with a 20" shaft yields 700+ gn arrow. Packs one hell of a punch, even at my 50 - 55 lb bow ranges.

Something beautiful about watching the exaggerated arch of a lam birch shaft at 30 yards!!!