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Eastons for a 50-pound longbow

Started by Oregon Bill, September 11, 2007, 12:20:00 PM

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Oregon Bill

When I use the Easton selector chart specifying a 50-pound longbow and 28-inch arrow with 125-grain head, the chart says to go with a 2013 or 1916 in an XX75. This sound about right to those of you shooting bows of this poundage? I'm looking at a Bear Montana. Appreciate any advice.

vermonster13

Pretty close, you might need a 2016 depending on how the bow shoots.
TGMM Family of the Bow
For hunting to have a future, we must invest ourselves in future hunters.

Son of Texas

I'm shooting 2016 32" with 130 grs. up front, 50@28
Bear Montana and Fedore Xtreme

ishiwannabe

Are you drawing a full 28"? If not your poundage might be up or down a few pounds depending on your draw...
"I lost arrows and didnt even shoot at a rabbit" Charlie after the Island of Trees.
                        -Jamie

Oregon Bill


ishiwannabe

So you are a tad under 50#....I shoot a 45# LB and use 2016's with 125 up front and they fly great for me. Its hard to say though, each bow is different.
I would think any of your choices should be usable with enough tweaking. I am also sure that some of the arrow "gurus" will post up and let you know a good place to start. Good luck.
"I lost arrows and didnt even shoot at a rabbit" Charlie after the Island of Trees.
                        -Jamie

rustyspike

I shoot a 53# @ 26". 2016's cut to 27 1/4" with 125 or 140 up front.  The same arrows also work fine with a 50# recurve cut to center. If you are cutting them to 28" you should be ok.


Rich K

Rich Wormington

Bill,
 Try a 1916 with 140 - 150 grain head, that has usually worked fine for me with bows in the 50# range. I also like a little larger feather, a 5" shield cut or 5 1/2" parabolic.
Rich

Pinecone

So much depends on whether the bow's shelf is cut to center/past center, whether or not you are drawing the full 50#, whether the bow is FF, etc.  Having said that, my guess is that if your bow is cut to center you will have good flexibility with the 1916 shaft.  However, if your bow is not cut to center and/or you don't pull the full 50#, you may discover that the 2013 is a better overall choice.
If you have access to a saw, my recommedation would be that you get a few test shafts and try them via the bare shaft tuning method.  Remember to tune for a weak bare shaft so that when flethching is applied, you will be spot on.

Claudia
Pinecone

John Nail

1916 out of the longbow. If it was centershot you could go 2013.
Is it too late to be what I could have been?


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