Most sources I've found recommend your shafts be cut 1"-2" longer than your draw length (as measured by the back of the bow) for clearance on broadheads.  Why do you need that much room?  

I understand not wanting to nick your bow's finish.  However, if your anchor point is consistent why would you really need any more than ~1/4"?  By cutting an arrow closer to the bow you can use smaller diameter shafts with thicker walls giving you the same spine.

you don't "need" that room.  Just do what works for you.  Experiment a little, and find what gives you the best results.  You can certainly go less than 1" if you like; I've done it...

It's primarily for safety reasons to keep from drawing the broadhead blade over your finger,in case of an overdraw.

Some prefer to cut them much closer, Schultz shooting HH bows liked the broadhead to,touch his,finger,for a draw,check.

A little extra length can help in case a you get excited drawing on game and over draw, nocking the arrow off.

Mine are only 1/2 inch clearance......and I still have all my fingers  

To have the cut just to touch is for sure a good reference point expecially when you are under pressure and most tend to short draw!!

Mine are cut 1/4 " long.  Overly long arrows have always been a distraction to me.

QuoteOriginally posted by macbow:
A little extra length can help in case a you get excited drawing on game and over draw, nocking the arrow off.

This is part of it for me.  I have pulled an arrow off the string that was over an inch longer than my normal draw.  Can you say adrenaline!

QuoteOriginally posted by cacciatore:
To have the cut just to touch is for sure a good reference point expecially when you are under pressure and most tend to short draw!!

X2.....I cut so the back of the blade touches my riser at full draw, it makes me more consistent.

It's not for your bow, it's to prevent you overdrawing and knocking an arrow with a razor sharp bh on it off the rest and pointing at who knows what...

I leave mine longish.....comes in handy when I'm wearing a wool glove.

I prefer mine full length, if I screw up and bust up the front end of the arrow or crack the back end, I can cut the broken end off and fix it and still use it as a stumping arrow with a heavier tip to compensate for the shorter length. Some of the broadheads like the Magnus Stingers have a sharp rear edge, 1/4" of clearance can cause some pretty bad cuts on your fingers. So if you do go down the barely long enough road, watch what kind of broadheads you choose!

I have no choice with a 32.25" draw length.  I fear that some day I will leave my own blood trail away from the deer stand!

May whittle down to confidence level...when the opportunity arises, I don't wish to focus on anything other than proper shot execution.

Note: Just because one hits their proper anchor doesn't ensure that the all-important proper alignment has been achieved.

I cut my shafts for the best arrow flight when tuning. Some are just a 1/4" past the riser, others are 1 1/2" from the riser. (I shoot wood arrows from several different bows)

I know that I have them that long as I have a supply of wood shafts left over from when I was young and pulled more weight.  To get them to fly straight, they are left long to soften them up some.

if your broadheads are aligned up and down, it will hit your fingers if you don't give it some room.  If you are using Silver Flames or Abowyers that might hurt.  

If not, it could result in the head stopping (against finger or bow) and your draw continuing, meaning the arrow comes off the string and you either have a broadhead arrow falling somewhere or stuck .  likely inside the drawn bow since that is where most of the shaft is, or some other equally dangerous place.
ChuckC

You only have to pull a sharp BH up over your finger one time to understand why it's good to allow a little "extra" on arrow length.