I've got a dozen each of the 190 el grande and 200 grain Kodiak (which I will forever call el grande).  Giving me fits trying to sharpen them.

any suggestions? Open to all ideas.  thanks.

justin

Hey Justin the new heads are a cinch!

Lay the beveled side down flat on a file and pull it to you in one easy motion. Do this until you have a bur the entire length on the blade. Next, lay the bur side on a piece of cardboard with the ferrel touching the cardboard. Strop it a few times like that to push the bur to the other direction. Now flip the heAd over and lay the bevele flat on the cardboard and put a few strops in that direction.  You should see the bevel "peeling" off while you strop on the cardboard.

This is how I do it and the edge mows hair off my leg.

The old ones take a little more work but can be done the same way....

With the new heads I really believe less is more.  Send me a PM if you need more help.... I didn't got too in-depth.

My KME works great on the new ones!

on the 200gr heads I could not get them good with KME Broadhead.  I have a Lansky and called Ron at KME...and he walked me through the proper sharpening sequence.  Made a world of difference from just trying to read the directions or watch someone else.

also, contrary to popular opinion...you still sharpen the NON BEVEL side...that is how you remove the burr a little at a time.

Give him a call at his shop...it was well worth it for me.

hmmm. Very interesting stuff!

i would call sharpster, I just got a pack of the grizzly 160 in the mail from ron and bill thanks to the st.jude auction and they are scary sharp im afraid to almost touch them. he helped me out at ETAR last year on my magnus stingers

The new ones are great, easy to sharpen.  Take the time and find out how before wasting time and effort.  I just hit the new ones on a smith diamond stone and bam, shaving sharp. They did a nice job so far with the grind.

I then shot it repeatedly about 50 x's into a rhinehart target and I swear you could still hunt with it.  Those things really hold an edge.

I use a file to true up any little spots along the bevel first(with the new ones this is almost not necessary). Then once I have a sharp smooth edge established I use a 600 than 1200 grit diamond stone and end up with a broadhead that will cut you if you look at it too hard.

One thing I noticed, take an eye down the blades, they sometimes have a slight curve to them, so if you lay it flat and dont address this, you will miss spots and the whole edge will not shave...so just be patient and make sure you work the whole edge. They did a nice job with them, but if they make them perfect, you are talking 100$/3 pricing as we've seen with others....these are a huge upgrade and less initial work.

QuoteOriginally posted by babs:
i would call sharpster, I just got a pack of the grizzly 160 in the mail from ron and bill thanks to the st.jude auction and they are scary sharp im afraid to almost touch them. he helped me out at ETAR last year on my magnus stingers

Babs, thanks very much for your contribution to the St. Judes auction!!!    

Justin did call me yesterday afternoon BTW. Hopefully I was able to shed a little light on the "how and why" of single bevel sharpening for him. Thanks!

Ron

I bought a file and cut it down to fit my KME knife sharpener for the intial filing.  It worked on the metal a lot better than the regular course stone.