I purchased a Howard Hill Big Five, 70" and 50 # @ 28" (dished grip) bow from Thom on Tradgang, and am hooked on the D-style longbow.  

Now I am considering purchasing either a Miller Split Bamboo or a Northern Mist Shelton.  While the best advice might be to buy both, I can only afford one.  

Some advice please.  How do they compare?  Thanks.

Rob

moots?  steamboat mountain bike moots?

coolest bikes ever.

joe

Nothing sweeter shooting than a Miller Split Bamboo, but they are an all wood bow, the Shelton is glassed. The  Split Bamboo can't be over drawn or left strung like a glass bow can. They are a different animal but great shooters.

I have had a Shelton and I thought it was a very nice shooting bow and the best string follow bow I have shot. Plus they are reasonable in price. There is one for sale used now in the classifieds. As with any bow personal preference is important. I had a David Miller and didn't like it as much as the Shelton.

That doesn't mean I wouldn't want to try another David Miller. I would like to try a David Miller Split Bamboo myself.

I would recommend trying a used one before I bought any new bow. Some of these bows are hard to find used. I rarely see a David Miller used for sale.

I would send a PM to HUD. I have had some discussions with him and find he is very knowledgeable with string follow bows. He told me some things I never knew about them. He has had many and I think would have valuable information for you.

John are you sure the split bamboo is all wood and doesn't have glass in it? I thought he just tillered it before it is backed with glass.

Thanks
Gil

The Split Bamboo is an all bamboo model with a 12" riser.
They ARE the best "in the hand" compared to ANY glass Hill style bow.
They are a little slower then the glass bows, but that smooth, linear, thrust at the shot will have you saying... Nothing shoots like an all bamboo bow.

Ditto what Jesse said.

Yes Joe, I've been riding a VaMoots for years . . .  and now I've found a new way to spend money with bows!

Okay, so I see that my Big Five has fiberglass (as does my McCullough Tsunami).  But a couple of my other longbows don't.  I'm understanding from your comments that the fiberglass makes a bow faster.  

I've done traditional archery less than a year; I don't know much.  But is this like the difference between a bamboo fishing rod versus a graphite or fiberglass rod? And I don't know what you mean when you say that the split bamboo can't be "overdrawn"or "left strung"?

Thanks,

Rob

Think of a piece of rebar, you can bend it, but if you go too far it will develop a kink and bend over. A non glass bow is engineered to only go so far. The length and the thickness is calculated to reach a certain draw weight, and the bow is made to go to your specific draw length. Fiberglass just adds a bit of stiffness, which increases speed, they are more durable but are not as gentle in the hand when shot.

If you leave it strung too long the limbs can develop a permanent set into the strung position, just pop the string off when your done shooting.

Ditto what Jesse said.

Moots it is the same as a bamboo fly rod compared to a fiberglass rod. If you are not careful and land too big a fish with the cane rod it will take a set, the glass rod will not. Same difference with bows

Okay, I think I'm starting to understand.  I see that Miller has an option for fiber backing or fiber backing plus belly glass.  So these options would add stiffness and speed.  

If Miller's Split Bamboo bow is designed to be "old school" and give the smoothness and feel of bamboo, it seems counterintuitive to me to put glass on the back and belly.  Wouldn't it make more sense to choose a different model and glass those?

So would the Northern Mist Shelton be more comparable to let's say Miller's Sage?  Or am I still comparing apples and oranges?

And string follow looks like the limbs bend slightly to the shooter.  So this would mean a little slower, but smoother release.  Would it make sense with string follow to shoot a bow at the upper end of draw weight to compensate for slower speed, but still get the smoother release?

Thanks.
Rob

The Shelton would be most comparable to the Miller Old Tom. Either is as good as it gets in a glass backed American semi-longbow.

Rob,
you are right you wouldn't want to glass a Split Bamboo. As Mike says a Shelton is comparable to a Old Tom and both are fine bows. I am personally partial to the Miller but to each their own. The string follow is as you say except that it won't effect the speed much at all, I would not up the poundage to compensate.

Have shot both. Miller all the way. Flint

Sort of apples to oranges comparison to compare an all natural bow to a fiber glassed bow.  Both bowyers are exceptional.  Steve Turay's Northern Mist bows get the nod from here because I prefer glassed bows.  If I were looking for an all natural bow it would be a Miller.

Just make sure it is long enough for your draw. Normal formula for a glass bow is to take the last digit of your draw length and add 60". So for a 28" draw go with a 68" bow.

howard hill's draw length/bow length formula was to start at 72"bow, 28"draw, and reduce bow length 2" for every 1" reduction in draw length.

so hh liked a little longer bow.

joe

With his self wood bow yes, with his laminated bamboo bows he shot 69" for his 28" draw. The extra inch was probably to help smooth out the fact that they were quite heavier than what most people shoot.