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fletching questions

Started by Bowhunter713, June 21, 2012, 03:51:00 PM

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Bowhunter713

Good afternoon all, I've been been bow-hunting for some time now, but have gotten the bug to try traditional tack(as if hunting in So. FL is not hard enough).  I'm enjoying the shooting so far even if hitting the target is a bit more difficult.  I feel like my kids when they hit the target, the joy of "I did it!".  
That aside though, I need to get serious or break out the compound this year.  I'm noticing a good tail kick upon release which I believe is due to the vanes.  I think this because when I shoot a few feather fletched arrows I do not get this kick.

Has anyone else noticed this?  Do most ya'll use vanes or feathers?  How about carbon arrows for that matter?  

The bow is approximately 52# @28" but I'm drawing about 30.5".
Bowhunter713 -
Sean G. Tierney

awbowman

You must use feathers with traditional bows.

Carbon arrows are fine.
62" Super D, 47#s @ 25-1/2"
58" TS Mag, 53#s @ 26"
56" Bighorn, 46#s @ 26.5"

bigbadjon

You do not "have" to use feathers with trad bows. If your fletch touches your riser I would wager your arrows are too stiff. A proper arrow will flex and clear the rest.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

Bowhunter713

If I'm using a 50/60 carbon - would that be too stiff for the bow mentioned above?  Maybe my nock point is too low?
Bowhunter713 -
Sean G. Tierney

Yolla Bolly

Sean, what weight of head are you shooting?  If it is light, you may be able to eliminate the "tail kick"  by gradually increasing head weight.  Also, try moving your knocking point a bit higher.
"Son, yeh gotta learn the Tehama 3-step."   Homer Whitten.

awbowman

Not looking to hyjack the thread, but does anybody else out there shoot plastic vanes from trad bows (without a rest)????
62" Super D, 47#s @ 25-1/2"
58" TS Mag, 53#s @ 26"
56" Bighorn, 46#s @ 26.5"

bigbadjon

I would  think you would not need stiffer than 500's. I shoot Easton exclusively so I am more familiar with their spine weights. Do you know what the deflection is on your shaft?
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

Bowhunter713

I think I was playing with 125gr but they might have been 100gr.  I'll have to double check that when I get home.  I'm sure I have both sitting around.

I know the wood arrows I was shooting have 125gr - those I built from scratch tying in turkey feathers, etc.  Really neat process, all in all.
Bowhunter713 -
Sean G. Tierney

bigbadjon

I have shot vanes from my bows without a rest. With a properly spined arrow they shot comparably to feathers. I do however shoot off of weather rests nowadays as I believe it offer more forgiveness.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

bigbadjon

I think Shawn Leonard had a thread about how to properly choose a carbon arrow that I thought was spot on. If you jump on A&H's website they also have a top notch article on tuning your arrows. If you read those over I think you'll prep yourself for serious improvement.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

Stump73

Is your draw length 30.5" with your compound.  With traditional bows you normally drop an inch or to in draw length. You might even try 145 gr.
BigJim Thunderchild 54" 52# @ 28"
BigJim Thunderchild 56" 42# @ 28"

gringol

Feathers will definitely be better.  The arrow itself may clear the bow just time, but plastic canes won't lay down if they brush the riser like feathers will.  I don't know any Trad archers that prefer plastic vanes...

You may need to tune as well, but I'd start with feathers.

awbowman

Just never heard of anyone using vanes with a trad bow.

If it's possible, why don't more people do in, especially in the rain?
62" Super D, 47#s @ 25-1/2"
58" TS Mag, 53#s @ 26"
56" Bighorn, 46#s @ 26.5"

Bowhunter713

On the way home - picked up 125gr, swapped the tips I out for these.  I also moved my nock point up the slightest 1/16" or so.  So I am now shooting carbons much smoother.  I am noticing a slight fish tail but the arrows are straight on impact from about 15yds.  

I probably do need to do some tuning, it's been a long time since I've shot trad.  I do not feel any plucking going on but my release may not be as smooth as I think it is.

Thanks for all the input, I'll keep tinkering.
Bowhunter713 -
Sean G. Tierney

JamesKerr

I have never been able to shoot a shaft fletched with vains straight. Vanes will always cause a kick in some direction coming off a shelf.
James Kerr

bigbadjon

The main reason I think most people don't shoot vanes is that they think that the fletch will bounce off of the shelf. Like I said though, if your arrow is properly spined your fletch will completely clear the riser. Almost all tradshooters are shooting shafts that are too stiff.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

NW Jamie

Sean,
I am just now starting to experiment with shooting vanes off of the shelf with a longbow. Have gotten some good advice from people and have shot some of a friends vaned arrows with very good results. Have been shooting aluminum and some wood arrows always with feathers, because I was told that is all that would work off the shelf with longbows and recurves, but now after more than a decade I start to question that. Switched to carbons and full metal jackets about a year or so ago, with very good results. But am always having problems with feather wear and tear off. I live and hunt in the southwest and wind and shots longer than 20 yards are part of the terms that you face here. So, for hunting pronghorn this year I plan on using 500 FMJ with a 125gr. broad-head cut to 29", this is going out of a shrew LB at 53#. I am going to have 4 arrow fletched with shorter vanes and see how they fly. I hope that this will offer flat shooting arrow that can handle some wind and still deliver a punch. So go have fun and shoot all different kinds of arrows and fletching combinations, see what you like, Then after you find what you like, keep looking because there may be something else out there. Have fun.
Regard's,
Jim


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